The Talbot Hotel, Stourbridge
Andrew Turton enjoys a meal at one of Stourbidge's most prominent landmarks.
enjoys a meal at one of Stourbidge's most prominent landmarks.
Stourbridge always prides itself on its heritage as a market town with numerous historic buildings lining its narrow town centre streets.
Ornate details and classic architecture feature around much of the Midland town including the Old Market Hall and King Edward VI College.
In recent years, an increasing number of modern restaurants and chain pubs have muscled in adding to the mix for those dining out.
But it was with an eye on the town's traditions that I decided to see if one of its most prominent landmarks could still cut the mustard in today's varied market.
The Talbot Hotel has stood in Stourbridge's main street since the early 17th century when it was a town house for the well-known local family, The Foleys.
Built around a small courtyard the hotel retains that other-worldly sense of walking into a TV period drama.
A huge wooden door sunken under a white archway whisks you inside from the bustling High Street.
This is where the history of the building becoming a bit of a conundrum.
Large windows throw light around a white painted hotel reception area as you enter.
Yet darkened corridors (almost pitch black in some cases) leading off the reception cast a slightly unnerving, rather than welcoming atmosphere.
Entering the main bar, a few regulars seem to have bagged their favourite positions with their drinks in front of the main windows overlooking the street.
While the hotel does have a more upmarket restaurant, for our night out we decided to keep it simple and see what The Talbot's bar menu had to offer. But casting our eye across the dining area we saw we weren't going to be pushed for a table.
Only a couple and a small party of friends were sat within the hotel's bar-come-dining area, decorated with modern wallpaper and tables but still keeping some original features including dark wooden beams.
Of course times are tough for every eatery so we decided that the bar's lack of atmosphere wouldn't dent our night.
The bar menu is far from enormous but there is a choice of meals all day long, the majority of which are priced under £9.
Our friendly waiter/barman/glass collector/hotel receptionist was effortlessly charming in a 'Manuel from Fawlty Towers' way.
He continued to hurry between tables, the kitchen and bar as we waited for our main courses to arrive in a little over 15 minutes.
I picked an 8oz rump steak (£12.95) which duly arrived served with lashings of chips, at least four large grilled tomatoes, lots of mushrooms, onion rings and peas.
To say I felt a little foolish to have ordered a side of onion rings (of which around another 14 were served) is stating the obvious.
The meat was tender, cooked to my medium preference perfectly, and was one of the best steaks I'd had in ages.
One of my dining partners decided on a fish pie (£6.75) which turned out to be salmon served with delicious minted peas and a sizeable salad garnish.
My other companion decided on a battered cod and chips (£8.95). Two large, freshly cooked pieces of fish were served and he remarked the taste wouldn't have been bettered in most fish and chip shops.
Feeling full, we did manage to sample a lemon meringue between us as a dessert served with a surprisingly tasty coffee sauce. Drinks were a tad pricey with pints of Carling at £3 and the overall bill coming in at £42.
The Talbot Hotel makes for a difficult summary.
On the one hand the service, the food and the traditions of the hotel provide a superb dining experience.
But the lack of atmosphere and failure to fully grasp the history seeping from the historic building is a shame.
ADDRESS
The Talbot Hotel, High Street, Stourbridge DY1 1DW
Telephone:?01384 394350
