Newhall Farm Inn, Cannock

A popular venue offering something for everybody needs to pay attention to small details,

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I don't know why this is called the Newhall Farm. Was it once a farmhouse? It certainly looks like it may have been.

It's quite a spacious plot of land, with an ample car park and a substantial private house joined on to the side, and the weathered brickwork and small windows certainly suggest agricultural use.

But after a few minutes sat near the entrance of this pub-restaurant on the outskirts of Cannock, I concluded there might be another reason for the name. Because it feels like you're in a barn.

Just who decided it would be a clever idea to peg the front door wide open? It wasn't a cold night by any means, and perhaps for the people sat in the other parts of the building it made for a nice pleasant breeze. But for those of us who had the misfortune to sit on one of the tables immediately behind the entrance, it was a pain in the neck. Literally.

The grounds are quite attractively landscaped, with a pleasant garden terrace around the entrance. But while there is a wheelchair ramp and a good wide entrance – too flipping wide when that door is left open – the garden area does make it difficult to park close to the entrance. It is on a bit of a slope, too.

What cannot be denied is that it seems to be very popular. When we arrived, just before 8pm, there was only one table spare, which of course, was the one behind the door. I wonder why that was?

Customers come in all shapes and sizes, young and old, middle-aged couples, large family groups, young ladies on a girls' night out. It is definitely a dining rather than drinking place, although one or two people did drop in for a few bevvies as it quietened down later on.

It is all quite smart, if a little corporate looking, with satin red walls, attractive striped fabric seats, and pictures of old Cannock on the walls, and I like the way the room has been broken up into several smaller areas, some on different levels. A large clock provides a distinctive focal point beneath the pointed roof.

As somebody who is a fan of Jennings' ales, I was initially quite pleased to find there was a choice of three beers from the Cumbrian brewery on offer. This joy was tempered a little though when the waitress explained that the one I wanted, Jennings' Bitter, was off. That left a choice of Cocker Hoop (good but strong) or Sneck Lifter (good but very strong). In the end I opted for the former, an aromatic hoppy beer, with a bright, hoppy flavour.

There is an old saying that there is no such thing as a free lunch, and the menu appears to take this rather literally. The pub is part of Marston's Two For One chain, where if you buy one main course, you supposedly get the second free. However, I think it is more a case of "pay double for one, get the second free."

For example, fish and chips is £8.95, which you might say is not unreasonable, but this compares to £4.60 at an ordinary Marston's pub. Okay, the fish here is battered in-house in Pedigree beer, but it is hard to escape the conclusion that the prices have been loaded to pay for the free course.

I suspect the real reason for the offer is to ensure efficient use of tables, meaning that groups of three or five who take up tables intended for four or six pay a premium for the privilege.

One thing that is beyond criticism is the vast choice, with a staggering 52 different main courses – including 25 specials listed on a blackboard next to the bar – on offer during the night of our visit. Four pies, four fish dishes, a couple of steaks and several vegetarian options, there must surely be something for everybody.

Indeed, it was one of the hardest choices I have had to make. I was initially drawn towards the sausage and mash, but then I saw the pork shank, which sounded quite tantalising, being cooked in cider sauce, flavoured with caramelised shallots, apple slices and wholegrain mustard.

In the end, though, the pies had it, and I went for the "butcher and baker" pie, consisting of beef, carrots and potatoes cooked in ale gravy. I also asked for a blue cheese and pepper sauce to go with it.

My dining companion chose the poached salmon fillet, which was supposed to be served with a light and creamy lemon-and-tarragon sauce, new potatoes and vegetables. However, the waitress informed us the kitchen was out of the lemon-and-tarragon sauce, so it would be served with a butter-and-citrus sauce instead.

The food came in good time, but it was not exactly what we had been expecting.

According to the menu, my pie should have been served with chips, but it came with new potatoes, while my companion's salmon was supposed to have come with new potatoes, but didn't. As for the butter-and-citrus sauce, it was conspicuous by its absence.

These matters were all put right, and the friendly and helpful waitress explained that the kitchen staff must have been confused. It did make me wonder though; we were only asking for what was printed on the menu, so how could that be confusing?

The pie itself was pretty good, the thick shortcrust pastry making a pleasant change from the puff variety that seems to be all the rage these days. There was plenty of meat, which was all quite succulent and tender, although the carrot and potato chunks were a little on the small side and the chips were unremarkable. The cheese-and-pepper sauce was very good, with a mellow, creamy flavour.

As with the mains, there was a huge range of desserts to choose from. Hot puddings. Cold puddings. Various ice-cream sundaes.

The caramel pie sounded superb.

"A chocolate pastry base, layered with caramel, soft sweet chocolate middle, finished with more caramel. Caramel heaven!"

Who could resist that? Not me, that's for sure. It was pleasant enough, and good value for £3.65, but I think the "caramel heaven" billing was, well, over-egging the pudding a little.

The total bill was £22.90, for two mains, hot drinks, and a pint-and-a-half of Cocker Hoop.

All in all, that's good value, although had it been for one or three, who would not have been able to take full advantage of the two-for-one offer, it would not have been nearly as attractive. And while all the waitresses were friendly and helpful, I would have enjoyed it much more had the kitchen staff taken a bit more care in getting the order right.

Most of all, though, I wished they had shut that flipping door.

ADDRESS

Newhall Farm Inn, Lichfield Road, Cannock WS11 8NL

Tel: 01543 278466

Web: www.newhallfarmpub.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Smoked haddock tart (£3.85); Wasabi tempura vegetables with sour cream and chive dip (£3.55); Ham and orange terrine served with a real-ale chutney and a crusty baguette (£3.85)

MAINS

Gammon hock served on a bed of wholegrain mustard mash with vegetables and gravy (£9.95); Somerset brie tart, with new potatoes and side salad (£8.95); Steak-and-ale pie served with chips, peas and gravy (£9.85); Aubergine moussaka (£8.95)

DESSERTS

Apple pie (£2.95); Lemon-and-raspberry sponge (£3.55); Tiramisu ice-cream cake (£3.45)