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Food review: Pastiche Bistro, Stafford

This has always been a favourite haunt for my family, perfect for birthdays and other celebrations, but I admit it had been a while since my last visit.

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Having parked up, I approached the bistro with my partner Mandy, chatting away as I pushed on the entrance door. It didn't budge.

I pushed again, peering into a pitch black corridor, the familiar stairs to the first floor dining room bathed in darkness.

As it turns out, since my last visit the bistro has relocated to the ground floor where it now operates as a multi-purpose establishment – coffee bar, bistro and... Hello. Gin bar. Mandy, we've found Heaven.

Seated at a rustic table with mismatched chairs, I clutched the gin menu in my hands. Wow. Such a great choice. The menu has some superb gins, including two variants of the rhubarb variety. As well as the selection of brands and flavours, suggestions of what are essentially gin-based cocktails were offered, £6 each.

Mandy and me both opted for a Slingsby rhubarb gin with rhubarb and ginger liquor, slices of root ginger, lemon slices and ginger beer. Wow. It packed a real punch with a lovely warmth following on.

Great value – Pastiche, now firmly operating from the ground floor, is a superb bistro

Foodwise, Pastiche has always been excellent value. Two courses in the evening cost £13.95 per head, with supplementary prices for some dishes.

Like I say, I have visited many times over the years and have never been disappointed. Portions are good and the quality of the food excellent.

Mandy started with a delicious bowl of roasted parsnip and potato soup with vegetable crisps and crusty bread. Deep in flavour, it was great. I opted for the mushrooms in a creamy stilton and chive sauce with crusty bread to dunk. This was lovely.

The stilton really came through without being overpowering and acted more as a cheesy soup.

For mains Mandy selected the lamb moussaka with a Greek salad garnish. She loved it. The individual bowl containing the Greek mainstay was accompanied by a good-sized salad.

My oven baked chicken breast with buttery mash and stroganoff sauce was beautiful. The portion of meat was plentiful and the mash as creamy as I had hoped. As for the sauce – spot-on. I added a portion of vegetables, which for an extra £2 vas both varied and more than sufficient.

Chocolate orange cheesecake

Starters and mains despatched, we both had just enough room for pud.

Priced just £3.50, the chocolate and Bailey's bread and butter pudding with vanilla custard was piping hot and oh so moreish.

Mandy equally enjoyed her nicely presented chocolate and orange cheesecake, served with cookie dough ice cream and orange syrup, £4.

With another couple of gin specials – well, why not? – the bill came in at just over £60.

Pastiche has been, remains and I expect will continue to be a perfect venue to dine – and drink – whatever the occasion.

By Paul Naylor

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