Food review: The Pig And Tail, Birmingham

Rewind to the dawn of the Millennium. A picturesque Shropshire town was the go-to destination for discerning gourmands.

Ludlow had three Michelin stars and a Michelin Bib Gourmand. It had its own food festival and a stunning selection of independent shops, including three bakers, four butchers and its own cheese store. Not bad for a town with a population of 10,000 people.

Birmingham, meanwhile, was a culinary backwater. Sure, it had a great restaurant in Edgbaston. Simpsons, created by chef-patron Andreas Antona, was a Rolls Royce venue; one where class and high standards were guaranteed. But beyond that, there was little to excite other than the Balti Belt. Birmingham was a gastronomic desert, a city that time forgot.

Fast forward to the present day and that's all changed. The city is now second only to London when it comes to eating out. It smashes the pants off Manchester, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Oxford and any other town and city you can think of. With five Michelin starred venues – Simpsons, Purnell's, Adam's, Carters and Turners – it offers scintillating dining for those looking for great food. There are other, esoteric options, including the thrilling Wilderness restaurant, in the city centre.

But Birmingham is more than the sum of its parts. It has fabulous international cuisine, great neighbourhood bistros, plenty of affordable gastro pubs and more besides. One of the newest kids on the block is the The Pig and Tail, in the city's Jewellery Quarter. It was opened this summer by acclaimed husband-and-wife team Mark and Chrissy Rafferty, who run the delightful Pickled Piglet, in Gas Street.

It is located in the former George and Dragon pub, one of Birmingham's oldest and most historic buildings, and its quirky look makes it a must-visit destination for those in search of informal and unfussy food. The Pig and Tail is more pub than restaurant. It's a cool and beautifully decorated venue with a modern feel. Large windows let the sun stream in onto colourful leather banquet sofas and absurdly-low leather armchairs. The décor is light and summery, fresh and distinctive. Artwork that adorns the walls is colourful and bright: it is, in short, a delightful place in which to hang out.

Service is pretty good too. Two waitresses were working the floor when my friend and I visited for a midweek supper. Friendly and engaging, both scored full marks. They made helpful suggestions when we placed our order and were interested in our opinions once we'd eaten. Polite, wearing the broadest smiles and unobtrusive, they were polished and professional.

The Pig and Tail doesn't have a booking policy. It's a pub, first and foremost, that offers a wide selection of craft beers, cocktails and fine wines. So Sharps Cornish pilsner and Chieftain Indian Pale Ale is just as important as hot smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on a toasted bagel. Chase vodka, Monkey Shoulder scotch, Fever Tree lemonade and Patron Silver tequila are as relevant as a prime beef, smoked bacon and cheese burger. And let's not get started on the tea and cake. The list reads like a warehouse stock take at Twinings, with English breakfast, Earl Grey, Dragon Well green, Egyptian mint, citrus camomile, organic Jasmine, white pear and ginger, spicy rooibos and Persian pomegranate among others.

The concept is simple. The Pig and Tail is an upmarket, artisan pub where discerning guests convene for drinks and a nibble to eat over their Hendricks G'n'T.

My friend and I started with a few bar treats. Two small bowls of hot paprika scratchings and candied bacon and curried cashews were appetite-whetting entrées that provided sustenance while we perused the tapas-style menu. The scratchings were okay – in truth, they were pork crunch rather than scratchings and had been over-seasoned with too much paprika. The nuts and bacon were fine.

We ordered a selection of dishes to share, filling the table and tucking in letting our tastebuds lead us on a global expedition of flavour. Battered cod cheeks were encased in a light, crisp golden batter and served with a delicious tartare sauce. The cod was moist and cooked with considerable skill. It didn't last long.

Plates of crispy pork belly were served on a bed of slaw and dots of apple purée. They belly was well-seasoned, the slaw added acidity and the purée was light and sweet.

Tuna skewers were seared and left wonderfully rare in the centre. They were served on a bed of spaghetti vegetables – long strings of carrot and courgette that had been twisted through a spiralizer and infused in a pickling liquor. They were great, though the tuna might have been served even rarer.

Light, crisp, handmade gnocchi were exceptional. They were served as a vegetarian side with cubes of tender, sweet butternut squash and creamed spinach. There was too much cream, but the flavours and textures were well-balanced and enjoyable.

A potato and coriander rosti was pleasant, too. The fragrant herbs added flavour to the well-executed potato dish, which was golden and crisp on the outside and tender within. A plate of salt-baked celeriac and pickled beetroot with seeds was outstanding. The balance of flavours was good, with the creamy, soft celeriac dancing with the sour, sweet and earthy beetroot and the seeds adding crunch.

We enjoyed a lengthy pause before sharing two desserts. In truth, they were served in such generous portions that one would have been fine between us. A chocolate brownie was reasonable: it might have been cooked a little less so that the centre was more fondant-like and there ought to have been more nuts. A milk ice cream was a nice addition.

A clementine trifle was delicious, comprising layers of jelly, peeled clementine segments, a light sponge, cream, candied rind and dots of clementine purée. It won the battle of the puds by a country mile.

Our bill was entirely reasonable: £60 left us both replete with my friend also enjoying a craft beer and us sharing fizzy mineral water.

Birmingham is overflowing with great restaurants to suit all tastes and all budgets. The Pig and Tail is an excellent addition, offering unpretentious food with inventive flavour combinations and stunning presentation. Guests don't have to worry about breaking the bank and there are no needless frills. Small plates and sharing boards make for sociable eating and the service is a real treat.

By Andy Richardson