Food review: The Three Crowns, Stone

If I could score out six stars rather than five for a recent meal enjoyed at an inn on the outskirts of Stone, I would.

This was a return visit. I remember dining at the Three Crowns, situated on Lichfield Road, just over a year ago. The meal I had on that occasion was pretty good, but my most recent experience was something to behold.

I had trawled the internet with partner Mandy, deciding on where to visit for my latest review and came across a brilliant offer.

The Three Crowns, along with other members of the Vintage Inns group, has a fabulous fixed price menu at the moment.

Billed as 'Steak & Supper', the three course menu is available on a Saturday from 5pm and it is exceptional value. Some dishes incur a small additional charge, but even so, this was set to be a great meal.

We pulled up onto the car park at 5.05pm – well, I didn't want to look too keen did I? – and there was clearly a decent number of patrons already inside.

It's certainly a pretty pub. Cream external walls, with part-thatched roof, and equally enticing on the inside.

Exposed beams and a tasteful decor welcome you from the entrance, leading to a bar area where, if you so wish, you can relax with a drink from the wide selection on offer.

And I spotted with my eagle-eye a particular current favourite of mine – rhubarb gin. Folks, if you love gin – and to be honest, even if you don't – you must try this. Top tip – instead of tonic, try it with ginger ale. It is amazing.

Two double Warner Edwards Rhubarb Gin and ginger ales were ordered (£7.40 each). Not the cheapest, but well worth it. The Three Crowns also serves plenty of real ales, so I was never goint to be disappointed.

Sipping our aternoon treats, I asked if a table was available and the barman asked if he could put our drinks on the table tab. Of course.

We were guided to a lovely part of the dining area, in a small beamed section with romantic lighting and just a few tables. The perfect setting for a quiet meal. Not that the restaurant was quiet. Plenty of folk were having a late afternoon/early evening meal.

Mandy's first course was a superb spinach and ricotta homemade soup, served with freshly baked bread and a delicious seeded butter.

Rich and creamy, a lovely soup indeed.

Now, I ended up having a meal that wouldn't have looked out of place at a dinner party in 1970s suburbia. It was quite unintentional, and it happened totally by chance, but boy did I do well that Saturday afternoon? Yes. Yes I did.

My first retro dish was a blinged-up prawn cocktail. I say blinged-up because it also contained lobster and was served with avocado, lobster mayonnaise and rustic bread.

The prawns and lobster were heavenly and the dish a triumph.

Onto mains, and for this Mandy had selected Duck supper. This was a simple, but delicious plate of food, featuring orange and malt whiskey marmalade glazed duck, roasted potato slices, green beans and a red wine jus. Beautifully cooked and presented. Mandy loved it.

There's a number of steaks on the menu, including an 8oz sirloin or 10oz ribeye, but I hadn't eaten fillet for a while and although it was billed as 7oz, it looked a decent size when it arrived. This cut costs £5 extra, but is worth every penny.

Cooked perfectly to the medium level I had asked for, it came with an onion and thyme fritter, triple cooked chips and a brandy peppercorn sauce. Bearnaise is also available.

It was presented nicely, with tomatoes on the vine and that onion and thyme fritter was a fabulous addition.

For dessert, Mandy always has an eye on the chocolatey puds and this evening – as it had now become – was no exception. One Belgian chocolate brownie please.

Well, I had already pedalled my Raleigh Chopper through two courses, so it was only right to stay on theme and indulge in a classic sherry trifle.

Now. My mother makes a mean sherry trifle. I often joke that my first alcoholic drink growing up was mum's special occasion pud. The Three Crowns had a lot to live up to. And live up to it the pudding did.

I was expecting a stingy portion in a tiny bowl, so when a robust oversized dessert glass arrived, packed with trifley-goodness – is there such thing? – I was in fruit, cream and custard heaven.

If you like trifle, you will simply adore this.

Oh stuff the rules. I give the Three Crowns six out of five stars.

By Paul Naylor