Food review: The Moat House Hotel, Acton Trussell

I'd heard good things about this venue. Very good things. So, with expectations raised, my partner Mandy joined me for a meal at The Moat House, situated in the pretty Staffordshire village of Acton Trussell.

Part of the highly regarded Lewis Partnership, the four AA star establishment is known for its quality and service.

The well-maintained Moat House has more than 600 years of history and is among the premier hotels in Staffordshire. All promising stuff.

For those looking to stay over, the hotel offers more than 40 beautifully-appointed bedrooms – making it perfect for wedding celebrations.

In addition, conference and banqueting facilities can accommodate from two to 200 people.

Diners can choose to eat in either The Orangery Restaurant or the more informal Lounge Bar. Either way, on the evidence of my recent visit, you are in for a treat if you go along.

I had booked us in to the Lounge Bar, a great place to enjoy a hearty, warming meal by a blazing log fire. We arrived around 8pm on a blustery night, so the charming vista as we pulled on to the car park was even more welcoming. It certainly is an impressive looking place - even at night. Once inside, the romantic setting just gets better. As you can probably imagine, there is wealth of stonework, beamed ceilings and the whole experience oozes history.

Guided to our reserved table, we ordered our drinks and settled in.

My Hendricks gin and Fever Tree tonic, served with cucumber, was refreshing (£5.25) and Mandy enjoyed her Pimms and lemonade (£4.95). There is a great selection of beers and spirits, served from a traditional bar, or if dining, to the table.

We ordered some olives (£4.25) to nibble on while we waited for our starters to be prepared.

The elderly couple sat next to us were rather well-to-do – and quite unintentionally entertaining as they regaled recent events. Ever the professional, I pretended not to hear about the family saga, resisting a smile on several occasions. It's a bit of a knack to be able to hone in on others conversations while maintaining chatter with your partner. Invaluable as a hack. Alas, no news stories to be had from this discussion.

The starters arrived. And boy, were they good.

Mandy had opted for soup of the day (£5.25). A good-sized bowl of homemade tomato and red pepper soup was served with slices of freshly baked sour dough bread and butter on a tiny slate. It was certainly tasty, with a lovely tang and bite.

I had been saving myself all day, so opted for something meaty. My Harissa lamb koftas (£6.25) came with Israeli couscous, chick peas, pomegranates, mint and a charred lemon crème fraiche. Visually stunning, it tasted as good as it looked. The kofta was indeed meaty and the accompaniment perfectly balanced. It all boded well for the main courses. We were not to be disappointed.

Before the course arrived, I ordered us a bottle of red wine from the extensive menu.

The bottle of La Riada Garnacha Tempranillo (£17) was delicious. A superb, deep red that paired with our food perfectly.

For her main dish, Mandy had selected the Spaghetti Alla Norma (£12.95). The pasta was perfectly cooked and came in a delicious sauce with aubergine, capers, pecorino, basil and lamb meatballs. Again, it was lovingly presented. The chef clearly knows how to tantalise.

The highlight though, for me, was my main course. It looked oh so inviting when it arrived. The rather abrutly titled Hash (£12.95) really does not do this dish justice.

A beautiful mound of smoked ham hock and potato hash came served on a bed of crushed peas, with a moat of creamed leek and grain mustard sauce. It was all topped off with a soft poached egg and garnish. It looked stunning. It tasted better.

Rich and meaty, the hash was divine. As for that sauce. Wow. A real joy. I will be having this again on a return visit. Loved it.

To be fair, the side order of a basket of bread (£3) was a bit redundant as the food was plentiful. I ploughed on regardless. The bread is good, and again, came with the slate of butter.

Would I recommend The Moat House? Let me think... absolutely.

Whatever the occasion, this is a beautiful setting for a lovely meal. I can't recommend it enough.

By Paul Naylor