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Food review: The Boat Inn, Gnosall, Staffordshire

Paul Naylor samples the simple pleasures of a canalside pub...

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Nestling on the Shropshire Union Canal in the village of Gnosall, The Boat Inn is a great little find.

It's certainly off the beaten track, but I guess more than a little familiar to those using the waterway – and of course its local patrons.

Described by its owners as a traditional, family-run pub, it proved to be exactly that – cosy, relaxing and friendly.

There was an obvious pride taken in the freshly cooked food and a warm welcome for 'the strangers in town'.

It was a quiet Tuesday evening when we rolled up on the car park. I was joined on this occasion by ma 'n' pa, sorry, I mean mother and father.

They had been before and knew how to find it. Just as well. We arrived and made our way to the entrance, passing a smart patio area and a sundeck that overlook the canal.

Previously thought to have been a farm workers cottage, it is thought the building was extended to become part of the canal system as the Shropshire Union Canal was constructed. Its use then was as a horse changing post for the Flyboat – a rapid transport of its era.

The present owners have been at The Boat Inn for more than six years and have retained a nostalgic feeling in its cosy four walls. Jugs hang from the beamed ceilings, while photos, stained glass, open fires and artwork nod to the past.

Father and me enjoyed a pint each of real ale, of which there is a good selection. Mother had half a lager and we asked if a table was available.

A pleasant young lady gave us a couple of options and we made our way to the table of choice. From our window-side table we could see the canal and its boats passing through. Idyllic.

There is a good selection of food, all pretty traditional stuff, and the pub is renowned for its homemade pies. Well, it would be rude not to wouldn't it? I had a good slice of chicken and chorizo pie (£9.95), served with chips and a variety of vegetables. Father opted for a steak and stilton variety (£9.95), adding a baked potato and salad. Both came with a jug of gravy. Needless to say pa did not pour it onto his salad.

Choice – cheeseboard to share

Mother opted to go for something different, trying the gammon instead. This came with chips, pineapple and fried egg (£9.95).

The pies were both great, crumbly pastry and rich filling with a beautiful gravy too.

We were all rather taken with the crispy chips, fluffy on the inside. Great chips. Really great chips.

The old-style pub has no juke box, fruit machine, pool table or satellite TV. What it does have is friendly customers, chatting away, playing a game of dominoes at the fireside. It's almost poetic.

When it came to pudding, mother opted for the sherry trifle (£4.95). A good portion served in a tallish dessert glass.

I shared a large cheeseboard for two (£7.95) with father. There was plenty of creamy cheese to choose from, including blue, brie, cheddar and a Wensleydale, all accompanied by a basket of biscuits, salad, chutney, celery and grapes. Spot on.

Service was okay, if a little slow at times, but the young lady was pleasant. The bill came in at just over £50, which for what we had was reasonable.

I would certainly recommend you pop in sometime, if only for a drink as you watch the boats pass through. But if you are looking for tasty food in traditional settings, it is a good choice.

By Paul Naylor

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