Food review: Faro Lounge, Lichfield

If you're a foodie, you'll know the excitement that stirs in your stomach whenever a new restaurant opens in the area.

Lichfield already boasts lots of sumptuous dining options – McKenzies, Olive Tree along with Pom's Kitchen and Deli to name a few – so Faro Lounge had a lot to live up to.

With a fresh lick of duck-egg blue paint and a huddle of multi-coloured tables and chairs dotted outside, the café bar looked impressive on approach.

Based on the city's central Market Street – which unfortunately has a few empty lots that I'm sure residents are happy to see filled with places such as this – the venue describes itself as 'relaxed casual dining in eccentric surroundings'.

And eccentric it certainly is. Inside is like walking into Alice's Wonderland, you feel somewhere between Einstein's lab, a Victorian saloon and a secondary school design and technology class.

Old-fashioned Edison lights linked together via pink, yellow and blue cables adorn the ceiling at the entrance. But walk further in and you find yourself in America's 1880s Old West, with Victorian lampshades, a big wooden bar and tipples stashed in an open cabinet.

Glancing around, you'll spot tomato-shaped squeezy sauce bottles on wooden tables and chairs, taking you back to the school canteen.

It's a mismatch of eras and styles with scores of framed photos and paintings take up every inch of wall space. The walls themselves are lined with William Morris-inspired wallpaper.

Since the place had just opened I thought pre-booking would be required – I'd phoned in advance, seeking a table for two – but this is a first-come, first-served venue.

We went at 5pm on a Saturday, hoping to avoid the crowds with a late lunch/early dinner. But the place was packed, with just a smattering of empty tables. Luckily we nabbed a quiet one towards the back.

The cafe seemed very popular with families and kids of all ages filling the room, from tiny tots waving beakers to energetic six-year-olds running between tables.

We seated ourselves on two wooden chairs and perused the menu. There are no starters at Faro Lounge, the entire menu is printed across two A4 cards with a separate mini-menu for kids.

Our grown-up options, like the decor, varied widely. Some very healthy looking salads (miso or grilled halloumi and falafel) were followed by salmon fishcakes, beef chilli, fried chicken, mac and cheese and a list of other sumptious-sounding delights.

There's also an all-day brunch selection as well as tapas options, which are served at £3.75 each or three for £9.95. But being hungry folk, we went straight in for the burgers. My partner settled on the Hero hamburger for £9.95 and I went for the Thai-spiced quinoa burger at £8.95.

All food and drinks are ordered and paid for first at the bar, so I sent my other half up hoping he'd remember I wanted sweet potato fries with my burger instead of normal chips, an option advertised on the menu ('upgrade to sweet potato fries £1'). However, on his return and with a cooling lemonade and beer in hand, he brought bad news – the sweet potato fries were out.

I was a little disappointed by this news, but still got my hopes up for the mains which arrived promptly within 15 minutes.

On first appearance, it didn't look spectacular. The fries were served in tin camping mugs alongside the burgers and house slaw. The first thing we noted was portion size – they aren't big, they are just enough to satisfy, but for those with a hearty appetite, like my other half, it might not be enough to fill you up.

Taking the first bite into my Thai-spiced quinoa burger, I immediately tasted the edamame beans layered on top and quinoa packed into the mix. It was an unusual, but very palatable combination. However it was quite dry and I quickly requested mayonnaise to add some moisture to the burger. I did spot a very thin spread of coconut sauce on the top bun but in my view it certainly wasn't enough to balance out the burger.

The house slaw was full of flavour and the thin-cut fries salted well. But having been left disappointed by the lack of sweet potato fries, and personally preferring thick-cut chips to fries, I was left a little unsatisfied.

As for my other half, his 6oz hamburger with chorizo was an incredibly spicy affair, enhanced by the chipotle mayo and marinated chilli. The soft brioche bun was a nice sweet addition to counter-balance the spice, but unfortunately the flavours proved too overpowering for my fiancé who gulped mouthfuls of beer inbetween each bite.

Having finished up and my other half craving a glass of milk, we decided to head off. We found the food to be very average. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't special in any way and it's reasonably priced.

Faro Lounge appears a good stopgap place to eat if you're shopping in the town or if you're seeking a lazy all-day brunch.

There's lab-style stools pushed up against high tables for those who may want to work on a laptop while eating, plush Victorian benches on big, long tables cater for families and comfy armchairs around coffee tables wait openly for those seeking a catch-up over cake (they have a selection of sweet treats to tempt you on the bar and dessert options such as sticky toffee pudding and warm chocolate brownie).

But as for a proper sit-down meal, this is not the venue for me. It's full of buzz and great for those with children during the day, and opens till midnight for those seeking a drink after work or going out for cocktails at the weekend. But you won't find fine dining here or spectacular cuisine.

It does what it says on the tin – it's a café bar, not a restaurant, and as such, its menu offers quickly cooked food that'll tide you over until your next meal. Perhaps if you pick enough of the tapas you'll get full.

There's a wonderful selection of drinks from wines and cocktails to homemade lemonades and milkshakes, along with draught and bottled beers.

So if you fancy a quiet, quick bite and a swift drink, hang up your coat on the Victorian-style stand by the door, find a seat and get your order at the bar.

By Louise Rouvray