Don Salvo, Wolverhampton
Alex Homer enjoys the expertly cooked Italian food on the menu at Don Salvo
Where is it?
It's on Darlington Street, just down the road from Beatties in the city centre. It's well placed if you want to have a bite to eat and then go for a drink afterwards because it's only a short walk away from other bars.
What first impression does it make?
As you walk in, there is a member of staff to meet and greet and lead you to your seats. The restaurant and bar are open plan, which gives the place a restaurant/cafe vibe. There are leather sofas near the bar and there were unusual red velour swivel chairs at the restaurant tables. This is a business not trying to mimic anything else.
How should I dress?
The restaurant had taken a large booking from a group of 20-somethings all of whom looked like they were heading out for a drink. The girls were made up, wearing high heels and in dresses. The lads were all in smart shirts. You would feel out of place if you turned up and you weren't in smart casual.
What's the menu like?
Given that it's a long-standing family-run Italian, I don't think I'll be dropping any bombshells by telling you there's a lot of pasta and pizza options. There is also a range of simple and tasty salads and a host of fish and meat dishes. If you're feeling like splashing the cash, keen meat eaters can order fillet steak, or a lamb shank, but there's plenty of fresh, varied food on offer. There was a proper nod to Italy on the drinks menu with Forza Azzuri and Peroni beers, wines from all over and a variety of cocktails.
How was the food?
We ordered a bruschetta starter to share, with rocket, parmesan shavings, cherry tomatoes and balsamic vinegar drizzled on top. The salad was fresh and tasty (and most importantly, served at room temperature) and the parmesan chosen had a lovely nutty taste. For mains, we went for a fairly classic double act of spaghetti bolognese and a bolognese calzone pizza. We were working on the theory we cook Italian at home but surely the bona fide chef would impress us. And they did – the bolognese was a heady ragu with a punch of garlic, fresh herbs and red wine. The filling of the calzone had lovely mozzarella and the dough was light and tasty too. We did however make one mistake in ordering a side salad of more rocket to share as well (I can't help myself sometimes) as the portions were already very generous. It meant we could only share a dessert – and we opted for the homemade cheesecake – which was absolutely delicious mascapone with a strawberry coulis.
What's the atmosphere like?
Wholesome is the best word I can think of to describe it. While we sat and ate, the music ranged from Dusty Springfield's I Only Want To Be With You to The Contours' Do You Love Me and Adele. The mixtape was very eclectic and covered tracks for every generation of the family. It wasn't trying hard to be edgy or cool, but was quite charming compared to those places that insist on dull elevator muzak or play tunes that are too loud for you to be able to chat.
What were your parting thoughts?
The staff were really lovely and friendly. I have a cringey habit of asking waiters and waitresses what they would order when I can't decide myself and it was refreshing that when I tried this out – twice with different members of staff during the night – their eyes lit up and I was recommended to try the calzone and then the cheesecake. I liked the fact the waitress boldly said the cheesecake was 'to die for' and that her judgement was bang on. I thought all the food was tasty but I would give the caveat 'make sure you're hungry' before you go, because the portions were pretty generous.
ADDRESS:
25 Darlington Street
Wolverhampton
WV1 4HW
01902 712819
