The Crooked House, Coppice Mill

Taking over something of historical importance and daring to change it is always going to be a rather big gamble, writes The Insider.

I'd wager then, that brothers Wayne and Jason Penn might be the betting types.

The pair took rather a big chance when, 12 months ago, as the traditional British pub suffered its most depressing era with dozens shutting every day, they decided to go into the business with their life savings and family's financial backing.

And they didn't happen to choose just any old pub to run either. Black Country born and bred, the Penns set their sights on The Crooked House, one of the region's most unusual buildings with a history stretching back 250 years.

It was a decision that could have been disastrous. Many a once decent boozer has fallen victim to new owners who come along to "freshen it up", or "give it a new feel", transforming popular spots beyond recognition and completely losing sight of their appeal in the process.

Thankfully, the passion and foresight of the Penns seems to have paid off. The pair, who were brought up a few miles away in Upper Gornal, have decided to stick to traditional values, making their new venture pay homage to all things Black Country, without being at all contrived.

Farmhouse

Their website had already set the scene with its unusually titled sections ('Aaahh Doooo' features an introduction from the brothers, while 'We bay heard from ya!' invites customers to contact them).

The Crooked House really has to be seen to be believed. As the name suggests, it's a wonky looking structure that has been so badly affected by subsidence caused by a mineshaft, one side of the building is four feet lower than the other.

Built in 1765 as a farmhouse, it can't have stayed upright for too long because it was named by locals as The Siden House in the 1800s when, as a pub, it began to slant, "siden" being the Black Country word for crooked.

It was later named after landowner Sir Stephen Glynne, becoming The Glynne Arms, before being deemed structurally unsafe in the 1940s.

This fascinating building was almost consigned to the history books before Wolverhampton and Dudley Breweries saw its potential and spent thousands strengthening it, thus securing its future for decades to come.

People often say they get a sea-sick feeling when they walk through the doors to find slanted walls, steep floors and windows set at angles.

Strange phenomenon

The Insider can confirm this strange phenomenon is true, having spent several seconds trying to steady oneself after arriving at the bar.

Thankfully once you're sitting the feeling subsides somewhat, although it still feels bizarre getting to grips with all the sloping angles.

The bar is at the front of the building, with wooden benches set into the walls. In one corner there's a small oak framed bar built into a slanted wall, at a gradient only magnified by the tall, straight grandfather clock standing beside it.

The restaurant is to the back of the building, and is thankfully, on a level. This, according to the latest Crooked House newsletter has had a "huge amount of money and effort spent refurbishing" it.

There are a few stairs down into the restaurant, and with fairly small doorways, disabled visitors might to call first to ensure a smooth visit.

Rustic charm

It is split into two sections, one a dining room full of rustic charm with wooden tables, arched windows and ornate fireplaces.

There's around 12 tables, with plenty of room to feel secluded if there's just two of you but space to book for a table of friends or family.

It opens out onto a brick-built conservatory, which has brown leather sofas for relaxing on and looks out onto an outdoor terrace.

Music from that well-known Black Country band, er, Westlife, played along in the background, thankfully not too loudly, and a polite, hard-working waitress showed us the menus.

There was only a couple of tables taken up when we arrived, but more and more walked through the doors.

Regional fare

True to form, it features regional fare. Grey pays and bacon ('bit of a bally filler') is among the starters, while award-winning faggots are among the mains.

The chef has bravely dared to step away from the obligitary pub grub, instead offering an interesting menu of traditionally British meals with a twist, such as courgette and lemon thyme risotto, confit wild hare and homegrown thyme and twice cooked slow roast belly pork.

There's also a range of vegetarian dishes, such as spinach and cream cheese roulade.

We visited on a Wednesday which is steak night, so mainly ordered of the specialist menu. My friend, an old pal from university, chose the bostin' jerk pork ribs (£3.50) which had been marinated in spices and slowly cooked for eight hours.

It appeared it was worth the wait, describing them as "tasty, juicy and with good textures".

She went on to a "delicious" 10oz rump steak (£9.50) well done. It came with a separate bowl of chips, and a tower of thick, home-made onion rings arranged in a small tower.

Delicious

I can highly recommend the sauteed mushrooms, served on eggy bread with peppercorn sauce (£4.15) which was creamy and filling.

It was followed by seared halibut steak with a "bonfire rub" which came with stir-fried vegetables, sweet chilli chutney and finished with sun-dried tomato dressing (£10.50).

It was all great, high quality food - and reasonable, our bill coming to £34 with six soft drinks. When we left the restaurant it was virtually full, and the bar was busy with drinkers too.

The other lovely thing about it is the extra touches. The bill comes in a pouch labelled "the damage".

There's a newsletter on each table detailing upcoming events and the employee of the month. There's even plans to create an allotment where the vegetables will be sourced.

The wonky building is no longer The Crooked House's unique selling point.

Give it a try, it's bostin'.

By The Insider

SAMPLE MENU

• Poached fillet of haddock With buttered homegrown spinach and a saffron and nutmeg butter. Priced at £7.95

• Marinated seafood salad A selection including squid, prawns, cuttlefish, mussels and octopus. £4.75

• Hot bacon, black pudding and poached egg salad A stack of grilled bacon and black pudding topped with poached egg. £4.50

• Confit of wild hare and homegrown thyme risotto Local shot wild hare served in a creamy arborio rice risotto. Priced at £7.95

• Not so traditional prawn cocktail Prawns served on a layer of basil mayonnaise smothered over fresh salad with buttered bread. £4

• Home-made smooth chicken liver pate Served with home-made chutney and home-made toasted savoury scone. £4

• Twice cooked slow roast belly pork Served with white bean cassoulet, new potatoes and vegetables. £8.15

ADDRESS

The Crooked House, Coppice Mill, Himley, DY3 4DA. Phone (01384) 238583 or visit their website at www.thecrooked-house.co.uk