The Barley Mow, Penn Common

According to a study by English Heritage, which involved the examination of some 3,000 skeletons, the average man has been pretty much the same height for around a millennium.

During the 1500s the typical bloke would have been around 5ft seven-and-a-half inches, compared to around 5ft 9in today.

Now if you're wondering whether your favourite eating out page has been replaced by a history thesis, your fears are unfounded. My interest in late medieval biology is rooted in something far more important, the question being: Why are the doorways so low at the Barley Mow?

Why are the doorways so low, at the old Barley Mow? Wouldn't that make a great Benny Hill song? But after much in-depth research, I think I know the answer. The reason the doorways are so low is nothing to do with 16th century men being dwarfs, but simply as a way of conserving heat. Yes, long before Ted Moult came along, tapping on sealed window units and waxing lyrical about the benefits of Everest, people were banging on about energy efficiency as far back as the 1500s.

Mind you, I will probably rue the day I mentioned that. Even as we speak it is quite possible that some Whitehall penpushers are dreaming up some new legislation restricting the height of door frames, and Treasury officials are no doubt salivating at the thought of a new green tax on tall entrances.

Anyway, I'm beginning to ramble, and there is much more to the Barley Mow than low doorways. Earlier this year it was voted Campaign for Real Ale Pub of the Year for the Wolverhampton, Dudley and Staffordshire region and, more importantly, regular Insider reader Pete from Dudley says it does the best steak he has ever had. As many of you will know, there are few things The Insider likes better than a good bit of beef, so its about time I experienced a slice of the action.

Tucked away in the heart of the Penn Common, the Barley Mow takes a bit of finding for people travelling from outside the area, but it is certainly worth hunting down.

Sadly, the medieval architecture has been spoiled by some rather incongruous modern additions, but I suppose we have to move on, otherwise we would still be supping cider from earthenware vessels, cooking from open fires and watching a lute quartet for entertainment.

The view from the car park is dominated by a large extension to the dining area, and at some stage a golf club building was also added to the side.

You have to negotiate quite a steep step down into the pub, and wheelchair users would be advised to telephone first for advice.

Off the beaten track it may be, but the pub was packed when we arrived early-ish on a Friday evening. We claimed the second from last space in the tightly-packed car park, and there was just one small table available in the crowded dining area. Like in many such old pubs, there is a single bar right at the end of the building.

Many people's eyes will be drawn to the impressive display of beer mats covering the walls and ceilings, but it was the colourful collection of bank notes from around the world displayed on a noticeboard that really caught my eye. There was a really warm atmosphere, just the sort of place you imagine spending your evening on a cold winters' night, chewing the fat over a few glasses of real ale as the snow outside does its worst - even if it does mean a long walk back across the vast Penn Common.

The low, beamed ceilings add to the cosy feel, there are old paintings and photographs on the walls - some relating to the surrounding golf course - and a colourful display of old bottles lines the tops of the windows. There are a few rough edges, but bags of character and charm.

There is a choice of five real ales, including Deuchars IPA - an old favourite of mine, Timothy Taylor's Landlord and three guest ales. For the last 10 years the pub has been run by Roger Bridgwater, who for 32 years ran Bridgwater Butchers in Penn Road.

"I used to provide the meat for the pub and saw an opportunity when it came on the market," he said recently. Given that the pub is owned by a butcher, it is fair to say that the meat should be pretty good then.

The menu is mainly traditional pub food, and there is no shortage of choice among the slightly eccentric range of blackboards and posters confusingly arranged near the entrance. While there was plenty to tempt me, one of the famed steaks was going to be a must, and I went for the sirloin in pepper sauce, while my dining partner opted for a small scampi with chips and vegetables.

The pub was very busy, and when I was inquired about how long the food would be, I was told 30 to 45 minutes, but I reckon it took slightly longer than that. It also became apparent that some of the customers who had arrived after us were already being served with their food.

My steak was good, but did not quite live up to the admittedly very high expectations I had. It was nicely cooked, but just slightly on the chewy side for my taste - it was only later I realised that another one of the numerous menu signs told me I could have had a prime fillet steak, which was the cut that I think I would really have enjoyed. I have since heard that the T-bone is rather good, too. On the positive side, there was a plentiful supply of veg and chips, and my companion rated the scampi highly.

For dessert, I was sorely tempted by the sticky toffee sponge with toffee sauce and toffee pieces, but in the end I opted for the "super fudge cake." Again, it was a hearty portion, but its gorgeous, syrupy flavour meant I was able to force myself to finish it.

The bill came to £29.60, which I thought was very reasonable, and I would certainly return. All I would say is make sure you read the many menus carefully - and, of course, watch your head on the way out.

ADDRESS

The Barley Mow, Penn Common, Pennwood Lane, Wolverhampton WV4 5JN

Phone: 01902 333510

MENU SAMPLE

Main courses

Steak and ale pie - £8.95; Steak and kidney pie -priced at £8.95; 16oz gammon steak - £8.50; Cheese and broccoli bake costing - £6.95; Whale of cod - £8.50; Wild mushroom lasagne is priced at £6.95; Wholetail scampi - £8.50

Desserts

Deep apple pie - £3.50; Treacle sponge - £3.50; Sticky toffee sponge with toffee sauce and toffee pieces - £3.75; Banoffee pie - £3.75; Super fudge cake - £3.50; Chocolate sponge - £3.50