The Hollybush, Trysull

It could have been a metaphor for the times we live in. Desolate, dishevelled, with its shabby cream paintwork and forbidding grey sheeting screwed over the windows, The Hollybush, stood like a bleak monument to our times.

Like so many other pubs up and down our region, the recession, the smoking ban, and the rising prices charged by the brewing giants sounded the death knell for the pub which had been at the heart of this village just outside Wolverhampton for the best part of three centuries.

What a difference a year makes. After months of lying empty, at the mercy of vandals - and a brief stint where it reopened under a relief manager - the Hollybush is back, having reopened in May following a total refurbishment.

And it has not gone un-noticed. Last month Shirley Baker from Seisdon dropped me a line to say how impressed she was by the new-look pub.

"Julie the owner is always happy to see you, and makes you very welcome," she said.

"My friend Jessica and myself eat at the Hollybush every few weeks, and always take new friends along who say how much they enjoy it.

"The food is very good, and all the produce is grown locally, the menu is varied and all cooked fresh."

And all the way from London comes another fan, in the shape of Steve Leigh. "Re-opened a few months ago after a successful refurbishment, Julie and Stephen are very good hosts," he says.

"The food is made from local ingredients and is prepared and cooked fresh on the premises by Roy who is a very skilled chef."

About time that I found out for myself, then.

There is not so much as a footpath to separate the Hollybush from the carriageway of Ebstree Road, a moderately busy country road about a mile from the centre of the village. If we had anything like a decent summer, the large, attractively furnished with stunning views over the countryside would no doubt be packed, but we haven't, so it wasn't.

With a large level car park and a spacious dining area, wheelchair access should be no problem at all although, as always, it might be best to telephone first.

Visitors to the restaurant at the rear are greeted by a giant frieze of the Bratch Locks at nearby Wombourne. Once you have taken your eyes off that, your attention will probably be drawn to the dinstinctive stripey carpet, which has a similar pattern to the socks belonging to Peter Jones of Dragons' Den. Old pictures of the surrounding areas stand side by side with abstract modern artwork on the walls, and the bar with its stockade type front was particularly eye-catching. Stylish but quirky is probably the best way to describe it, and it is certainly more interesting than the bland uniformity of the old Hollybush.

It was a little surprising to find it only half full on a Friday night, and I got the impression it might have been a one off, as owner Julie Carey was telling another customer how pleased she had been with trade since the pub opened. A group of three ladies sat opposite the bar, a middle-aged couple a couple of tables away. At the other end of the room was a group of two couples, one young, one elderly, and a young man with a beard was sat in the alcove the other side of the archway.

Julie, a slim, dark-haired lady probably in her 40s, offered us a choice of seats, and we opted for one next to the window. The first thing you notice is how low down you are sitting compared to the road outside, a feeling emphasised by the occasional presence of a Mondeo whizzing past your shoulder. The menu, printed on a smart lime green card, includes 11 main courses, mixing classic pub dishes with a few more exotic offerings for the more adventurous. The venison sausages sounded intriguing, but in the end I decided to go for the noisettes of lamb on the specials board, while my dining partner went for the fillet steak.

The food took around 25 minutes to arrive, which was not too bad given that all the food had been freshly prepared. My lamb was served with rosemary mashed potatoes in a slightly minted honey gravy.

At £13.90 it was towards the upper end of the price scale, but the meat was of good quality with barely a trace of fat, and the seasoning struck just the right balance between having a good flavour without being overpowering. My companion's fillet steak was also of the highest quality, served with paprika butter, mushrooms and wonderful hand-cut chips.

For afters, we both went for the lemon tart which, like all the desserts, is home-made on the premises - excellent value at £4.50.

The total bill came to £52.75, so it is by no means cheap, but not unreasonable for what is a high-end pub meal. It later emerged that one of the three young ladies sat by the bar was actually thinking of taking on a pub of her own, and was seeking Julie's advice on how to go about it.

Well, if this experience was anything to go buy, she could do a lot worse.

The Hollybush, Ebstree Road, Trysull, WV5 7JE Phone: 01902 326249

Starters

Grilled goats' cheese with caramelised red onions served on a bed of rocket £4.75

Smoked salmon with a mustard and dill sauce served with granary bread £4.95

Warm camembert, slow roasted garlic and rosemary, with ciabatta soldiers £8.90

Crevettes sauteed in white wine, served with a citrus punch £7

Main courses

Roasted marinated sea bass and fennel served with a green herb salsa, buttered seasonal vegetables and potatoes £13.90

Grilled ribeye steak with garlic mushrooms, tomato and hand cut chips £16.50

Pan fried chicken breast with pepper sauce, served with hand cut chips £9.90

Venison sausages served with a rich game and onion gravy, mashed potatoes and buttered vegetables £9.90

Desserts

Sticky toffee apple crumble served with custard £4.50

Warm chocolate brownie served with creme fraiche £4.90

Vanilla panacotta with a variety of summer fruits £4.25

Lemon tart with cream for £4.50

British cheese plate selection served with tomato chutney, sticky malt loaf and oat cakes £6.50