The Bentlands, Codsall

This week, we are having a taste of Mexico,

. A fortnight ago such a statement would probably have caused mild panic among some.

But now the furore over swine flu seems to have died down - and our MPs' greedy expenses claims have become more sickening than any old potentially fatal disease - we can talk about our South American friends without sending folk running for the nearest box of tamiflu.

I've always been a fan of Mexican food, but other than a couple of well-known chain restaurants, it's rare to find a spot that specialises in this gloriously rich and spicy cuisine.

So I was surprised when a reader said the place to get really tasty enchiladas and fiery fajitas was less than a mile away from my humble abode.

How had such a place gone unnoticed? Colleagues, many of whom have lived in Wolverhampton for most of their lives, were equally flummoxed when I asked them about The Bentlands.

Mention it to pretty much anyone living in the village of Codsall, however, and they come over all misty-eyed, describing in detail their last chicken burrito and spicy rice.

Arriving at The Bentlands this week, it was even more surprising why such a place was not on one's radar. Situated on leafy Suckling Green Road, it's a giant of a building.

I'd been expecting a restaurant, and this was very much a pub. Grand though it appeared, the big brewery emblem above the door and the group of 20-something lads enjoying an after-work pint outside gave no hint of the culinary delights inside that attract such a loyal fan base.

A quick look on the website tells you that it was once a manor house, dating back to the early 20th Century.

Owned by the Jenks family of the famous Wolverhampton engineering firm Jenks and Cattell, it was sold in the 1950s and became a working men's club.

It later fell into the hands of brewery Mitchells and Butlers, which turned it into a pub. It gets its name from the type of grass that grew on the fields before it was built.

It was once home to elaborately landscaped gardens, with water features and even tennis courts. Thankfully, some of that beauty has been retained in what has got to be one of the biggest beer gardens in south Staffordshire. The warmer weather had subsided by the time of our visit but I made a mental note to return in sunnier climes.

At around 7.30pm on a Wednesday night, there was a healthy crowd about. We made a beeline for the conservatory, which looks out on to that fabulous garden.

It is really spacious inside, so caters for the disabled, and there are tables of all sizes. Outside a couple of benches were taken up by a group of lads, while the sizable smoking shelter had two permanent visitors. As we looked at the menu, three young boys kicked a small yellow ball around outside, totally oblivious to what appeared to be a hastily-made No Ball Games sign.

There was a real mix of people around us. Three middle-aged ladies sat gossiping in hushed tones to our right, while a few couples were dotted around the room, sharing fajitas and bottles of wine.

A family of five sat nearby, celebrating the birthday of Rachel, who sank into her chair when her proud relatives burst into song at the arrival of a cake and candles.

As well as the Mexican choices, there is a vast range of other meals available, from small snacks to fish dishes and steaks. But we'd come with an agenda, so my companion went for chicken and beef fajitas while I chose dos enchiladas, one tortilla filled with beef, peppers and onions and another with chicken.

I started with four stuffed jalapeno peppers, which came coated in breadcrumbs and oozed rich cream cheese. My partner chose crispy breaded mushrooms, which was a good portion and thoroughly enjoyed. We could hear the fajitas sizzling a mile off before the skillet landed on our table.

The conversation stalled somewhat as we smeared tortilla after tortilla with cheese, guacamole, salsa and sour cream.

My enchiladas were soaked in cheese and packed with flavour, as were the spicy fries that accompanied them. The side salad was delicious too.

Our total bill with a glass of wine and a couple of pints of lager came to just over £41. As well as good food and nice surroundings, I'm pleased to report every single member of staff we came across was polite, attentive and friendly.

The crowd was a nice one too, and different groups of people of all ages kept arriving through the night.

It may have taken me a while to learn about The Bentlands, but it was definitely worth the wait and we'll be heading back soon.

ADDRESS

The Bentlands, Suckling Green Lane, Codsall, near Wolverhampton, WV8 2BP

Phone: 01902 847076

Email: info@bentlands.co.uk

Website: www.bentlands.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Stuffed jalepeno peppers filled with cream cheese and served with dipping sauces, £4.95/£6.95; Buffalo wings - pile of chicken wings coated in Bentlands buffalo rub, coated in choice of sauce, £3.85/£5.80; Soup of the day, £3.95

Main courses

Poached salmon fillet with Atlantic prawns and a hollandaise sauce, £9.95; Exmoor beef sirloin glazed in garlic parsley butter, £13.50; Hickory smoked chicken - grilled breast of marinated chicken with a smoky barbecue sauce, £9.95

Tex Mex

Dos enchiladas - two flour tortilla, one filled with chilli beef, one with savoury chicken, topped with spicy sauce and mozzarella, £9.95

The restaurant also serves a selection of filled baguettes and wraps, jacket potatoes, salads, burgers and side dishes.