The Wheatsheaf, Walsall

Dining review by the Insider

But I'm afraid you're going to have to allow me to touch on these troubled times in this week's column, because without them, one little gem of a pub might not even exist.

Proving that every cloud has a silver lining, The Wheatsheaf in Walsall is emerging as a real success story, after one half of its management became inspired to run it when she was made redundant.

As many former workers of Birmingham's doomed HP factory sloped off to the job centre to sign on, Jean James was picturing herself pulling pints, changing barrels and making small talk with customers propping up a bar.

She teamed up with pal Carrie Cooke and they went on the hunt for the perfect pub. They fell in love with the historic watering hole in Birmingham Street – once a notorious student hangout. And their tireless work seems to be paying off, after recently being given an award by the local branch of the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA).

Some locals might say the success is down to the woman's touch. There are vases of fresh flowers and a pink calendar behind the bar, flowery Monet prints adorn the walls and there seems to be a constant whiff of just-cleaned surfaces.

But it seems to me it's very hard work, attention to detail and the simple notion of creating a pub at the heart of the community that's reaping rewards.

Arriving after it had only just opened its doors for the day, The Wheatsheaf was quiet. But standing there on the pristine wooden floors, I could almost feel the frivolities of previous nights reverberating around the room.

Posters dotted around the room urge you to pop along to the weekly open mic nights. Another tempts you to dust of your trainers and join the pub's dedicated running club. I quickly got the feeling that my own social life was very boring compared to this jovial lot.

I'm also told Jean and Carrie welcome customers of the four-legged variety, a sight not too common in many of today's trendy spots. While they didn't appear to be there during my visit, Carrie's two Tibetan lhasa apsos, Toby and Milly, are regularly spotted curled up on the floor. It's a tradition that's captivated many a dog walker to pop in on their way past.

Another feature that's secured the business an army of fans is the pair's commitment to providing a varied selection of real ales. It was this that helped it win the hearts of the borough's CAMRA group, which named it their 2008 Pub of the Year. Among those on offer in recent weeks are Wells' Bombardier, St Austell's Tribute and Thwaites Lancaster Bomber, and the girls regularly change them so regulars can't fail to get bored.

The decor is modern and understated. Dark wooden tables rest on pristine oak floors, and the walls are painted white with a dusky pink panelling.

There are sofas and comfy chairs to relax in, or various tables for two or four. Choosing one for four, my companion and I spent a good 10 minutes perusing the menu. Keeping in with the traditional theme, it's full of wholesome, home-cooked food with fresh ingredients.

My friend chose the 8oz rump steak (£9.45), which she was delighted to find came with thick, fresh-cut chips that were cooked to perfection. She found her steak was slightly more well-done than she'd hoped, having asked for it medium to well done, but said it and the accompanying pepper sauce (£1) were nevertheless divine.

My lamb shank (£11.95) was superb and my fork just kept finding huge chunks of meat. It came with creamy mash and peas and had clearly been lovingly created. Having started off by nibbling some nachos covered in salsa, cheese and sour cream, we were suitably stuffed. With a gin and tonic and a soft drink, the bill came to £30.60.

As it was quiet, a bit of music would not have gone amiss and might have created a bit more atmosphere, but it did not affect the experience particularly.

It might be interesting for families to know that children are accepted, even in the evenings.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to The Wheatsheaf, and hope it continues to thrive. The one problem I did find, however, is that there is no dedicated car park, and it was a bit of a scramble for a space on the surrounding streets.

The lack of parking situation has been hampered further by newly-painted yellow lines right outside the pub, a petition against which has been raised by Carrie and Jean and is quickly gathering signatures having been stuck on a pillar next to the bar.

If they apply themselves to that campaign with the same vigour as they have their fledgling business, those double yellows will be getting scorched off in no time.

Address

4 Birmingham Road

Walsall, WS1 2NA

Phone: 01922 628992

www.wheatsheafwalsall.co.uk

Menu samples

Starters:

Soup of the day £3.50, Crispy vegetable spring rolls £3.95, Potato skins £3.95, Onion bhajis £3.95

Main courses:

Homemade steak & guinness pie £7.45, Tuna steak £8.45, Homemade chicken and mushroom pie £7.45

Children's meals:

Fish fingers £4, Double eggs £4 Double sausages £4