Miller & Carter, Penn

Dining review by the Insider

'Git yer trousers on sunshine, you're nicked!' What does the name Miller & Carter mean to you? To some it might conjure up images of Michael Caine in the film Get Carter!, while others will think of Regan and Carter out of The Sweeney. Still, whichever side of the fence you sit on, it still begs the same question: who exactly is Miller?

An admittedly very rudimentary desk-bound inquiry failed to shed any light on where the American-style steakhouse chain takes its name from. But, as any kipper-tied 1970s detective would tell you, you can't run an investigation like this sitting around in The Factory; you have to get out there with the punters to find out what's what. And having received some very strong tip-offs from two of my informants, I decided it was time to jump in the motor and burn some rubber.

The scene of the thyme (all right, enough, enough) will be better known to most as the old Penn Cottage. But while that was a pretty modest affair, offering simple, middle-of-the-road food in rather conventional surroundings, Miller & Carter is much more ambitious and exotic.

Ambience

From the road, it hasn't changed much, still looking like a country house surrounded by conifers, with ivy trailing from the double gables. A neat picket fence surrounds the small garden at the front, where there are bench tables with large parasols for those wanting to drink alfresco, although the traffic whizzing past along the A449 doesn't do much for the ambience.

Finding a parking space proved challenging on the Friday night of our visit, but fortunately somebody was leaving at the same time. The car park is fairly level, and wheelchair access should not be a problem, but it is a fair trek from the far end of the car park.

The inside is unrecognisable compared to the old Penn Cottage, and it was heaving on the Friday night we called. There was a 40-minute delay for a table, so we settled in the crowded bar at the front.

While the ceiling beams give a nod to the past, the bright lighting and modern brown vinyl seating give the bar a trendy, vibrant feel. It also feels much bigger than the old pub, and I would guess there would have been a couple of hundred people in there on the night of our visit.

It is very much a young person's place. There were older people around, but I would suggest that probably two thirds of customers were in their 20s or 30s. One lady wore a hat in the shape of a birthday cake, complete with floppy candles, and a balloon tied to it suggested the large party at the front was celebrating a 30th birthday. A smartly-dressed man wearing designer specs was engaged in a lively conversation with an equally stylish young lady, and there was just something about him that made me think he would look the part on The Apprentice.

It is not an ale drinker's pub, though. If lager is your thing, you are spoiled for choice, with brews from all over the world, and cocktail and cider drinkers are also well catered for. But in the absence of a locally produced bitter or mild, I contented myself with a glass of orange juice. The bar is certainly lively, but to be honest I found the noise a bit overbearing, and was quite relieved when we were taken to our table pretty much on time.

The restaurant has moved very much upmarket, decorated in an interesting mix of traditional and modern styles. The sturdy, ranch-style beams to the ceiling, and exposed brick walls suggest good ol' fashioned Wild West values, but the glass centrepiece with an imposing M & C monogram looks thoroughly modern.

We were served by Gina, a tall, slender silver-haired lady who was courtesy personified and very helpful, but the occasional delays in being served suggested that perhaps there were not enough staff to service the number of customers. The menu is varied, with fish, pasta, salads and risotto all on offer, as well as a plethora of burgers.

Candy

But with a choice of eight different steaks, I was like the proverbial kid in the candy shop, and decided on an 8oz fillet topped with parsley butter, accompanied by brandy and peppercorn sauce. My dining partner went for the mushroom and stilton burger, which was served with chips and house slaw. With the absence of any beers which tickled my fancy, I decided to sample a glass of the house champagne, at just £4.50 a glass.

The monogrammed theme was extended to the American-style thin-cut chips, which came wrapped in greaseproof paper carrying the M & C crest. I thought this gimmick a touch tacky, but my misgivings were quickly forgotten when I tucked into the steak.

Up until this point, my expectations had been pretty modest. I found the new-look bar a bit too hectic and noisy. But the food itself was in a different league to the mass-produced pub fittle I was anticipating.

The steak, which according to the menu was farm-assured West Country beef, was superb, consistently tender without so much as a lump or a bump that I could discern. Better still was the brandy and peppercorn sauce.

Many restaurants consider a good sauce to be one that is hot as possible and overdo the pepper, but this one got the delicate balance just right, something that had not gone unnoticed by my dining companion who started dipping her chips in it.

The steak was accompanied by Miller & Carter's "famous onion loaf" - now tell me, had you heard of it? - which was nicely done, but not really my thing, while my companion declared her burger and chips beyond reproach.

The chocolate brownie I had for afters was pleasant enough, if not up to the standard of the main course. The total bill was £48.75, which I thought was very good value.

The experience proved that, if the ingredients are right, it is possible for big restaurants to cater for large numbers and still deliver food to a high standard. All in all, it warrants continued inquiries, although I think my next steak-out will probably take place at a quieter time.

Oh, and I think Miller must be the hefty sergeant out of Heartbeat.

ADDRESS

Miller & Carter, Stourbridge Road, Penn, Wolverhampton

Phone: 01902 896264

MENUS SAMPLE

Starters

Heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad with sea salt and olive oil, £3.50; Aubergine and bacon bruschetta, parmesan and a fig balsamic dressing, £5.95; Chicken and chorizo skewers with roasted pepper and smoked tomato dressing, £4.95

Main courses

Steaks - ribeye, sirloin, rump, fillet or minute steaks, served with a slice of onion loaf, parsley butter, an iceberg wedge with choice of topping, chips or jacket potato, £7.95 to £17.95; Creole fried chicken with barbecue sauce and sour cream, with either chips or jacket potato, £7.95; Lamb cutlets with sticky mint sauce and green vegetables, with either chips or jacket potato, £12.50; Grilled vegetable sandwich with roasted peppers, plum tomato and grilled aubergine, topped with melted cheddar and pesto on ciabatta bread, £6.50; Beer battered haddock, mushy peas and tartare sauce with chips ,£7.95

Desserts

Ice cream sundae - profiteroles, chocolate and vanilla ice cream, Belgian chocolate sauce, £4.50; New York Vanilla cheesecake with strawberries, blueberries and cream, £4.95; Banoffee pie, £3.95