Ridgacre, West Bromwich

Our meal reviewer The Insider follows up a reader's recommendation and finds a most unlikely link with Ol' Blue Eyes . . .

Sometimes we have no choice but to take things on trust. We are told Neil Armstrong stepped out on the moon, but how many people witnessed it?

It is said that Sir Edmund Hillary scaled the peak of Everest, but we only have a few photos to prove it.

And do you really believe that, in this day and age, Nanette Newman doesn't have a dishwasher?

But sometimes you have to challenge the perceived wisdom. For instance, we have always been led to believe that Frank Sinatra was an American, of Italian descent, but do we know for sure? Because, after much careful consideration, I have arrived at the conclusion that he probably came from West Bromwich.

Now at this point you might my imagination is running a little wild, and I admit that if you had told me this last week, I too might have been a little sceptical. But having looked at all the evidence, I think there is a very real chance that Francis Albert spent much of his adult life in Greet's Green. A stone's throw from Dean Martin's place in Tat Bank Road.

To be honest, there is no conclusive proof either way, but look carefully at pictures of the Rat Pack playing poker around a small, cosy table, beneath a single large powerful lamp. Is that not the small alcove inside The Ridgacre?

This pub, off a traffic island along the Black Country New Road, was recommended by reader Alex who, during a recent visit, enjoyed a beautifully-cooked lamb shank served in tomato and garlic sauce, with creamy mash and fresh green beans.

"Best of all though, the service was really attentive," she says. "Staff took the order at our table and even replenished our drinks, so we didn't have to keep queuing at the bar."

Part of Whitbread's Table Table chain, the Ridgacre transformed the Black Country town's skyline when it was built on the site of a landmark gasholder 10 years ago.

Located at the side of a canal, The Ridgacre shares a campus with a Premier Inn motel, while a pretty substantial wooden stockade encloses the large beer garden to the front. A large, level pathway leads from the car park to the front door.

It was surprising just how busy it was, even for a Friday night. There was a spare table by the entrance, but as the single front door in the porch entrance opened up a draught everytime somebody walked in and out, we decided this was best avoided and ventured deeper into the well of the pub.

We settled on a seat a few yards from the Las-Vegas style alcove table, which was encircled by a large glass cubicle. To the right, a group of four in their 20s were occupying a large semi-circular bench seat, which reminded me slightly of a car ferry, while seated opposite was Mr Bling, a young dark-haired man with a pretty substantial piece of neckwear.

On the whole, it seems to be occupied mainly by people in their 20s and 30s, although when we arrived there were a significant number of middle-aged couples as well. I would venture that nearly everybody had arrived by car.

The decor is simple and modern, with Table Table's trademark wooden sculptures. There was a mixture of traditional chairs and tables, as well as high stools for drinkers.

We were served by Donna, who certainly made us feel welcome. A cheery Black Country lass who made us feel at home.

The varied menu included a choice of grills, meat, fish and vegetarian dishes. Burgers appear to be something of a speciality, with a 6oz bison burger for those hankering for a taste of the exotic.

My 8oz sirloin steak came in reasonable time, and had been cooked exactly to my requirements, although I did find the meat to be slightly on the chewy side, and I am not sure it justified the £14.04 price tag once the peppercorn sauce was added. The sauce was very good, but I would have liked a little more, and the chips were excellent. On Donna's advice, I also had a side order of carrots, at a very reasonable 30p.

My more adventurous companion went for the Mediterranean lasagne, which consisted of roast vegetables in pasta layers in tomato and onion sauce, with a cheese topping, served with a chunk of crusty bread. She said it had been "beautifully cooked".

An unexpected bonus came when Donna bought a second round of drinks to our table. "I know you didn't order them, but somebody put your order through twice so you might as well have them," she explained and you can't say fairer than that.

During the course of our meal, a couple on a neighbouring table appeared to be having a "domestic", and I was mildly amused to watch how Donna politely collected their glasses between all the shouting and finger wagging. A male member of staff quickly intervened and they left the premises, and the waitress apologised for the sideshow. I thought they handled an unfortunate situation quite professionally.

I was a little disappointed that the lemon tart on the dessert menu was unavailable, but did enjoy my profiteroles, which were good value at £3.75. My companion seemed quite happy with the tiramisu, but was unable to finish it.

The total bill with two coffees came to a very reasonable £36.71, and as Alex said, the standard of service was excellent.

As for the Sinatra story, keen observers will probably have spotted that the Ridgacre did not open until the year after the Chairman of The Board's death in 1998, so I suppose I will have to accept that he has never dined here, let alone played cards. Which is a little sad, really. I'm sure he would have had some lively exchanges with Elvis, who was working behind the bar.

ADDRESS

The Ridgacre, New Gas Street, West Bromwich B70 0NP

Phone: 08701 977264

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Goats' cheese and herb pastry parcels £4.75; Aromatic duck parcels £4.50; Garlic and herb breaded mushrooms £3.75

Main courses

Chicken fajitas £7.99; British beef and Boddingtons ale pudding £7.99; Outdoor reared British pork, leak and bacon sausages and mash £6.99; Bacon and cheese topped chicken breast £8.99; Gammon steak £6.99; 6oz blackened minute steak £6.99; Mediterranean vegetable lasagne £6.99; Spinach and ricotta ravioli £6.99; Hand battered fish and chips £6.99; Burgers - lamb, beef, chicken or vegetable £7.99; Bison burger £7.99

Desserts

Vanilla cream pudding with blueberry compote £4.25; Cheese board £4.50; Ice cream £2.99