The Swan With Two Necks, Longdon

There are some things we know about the Queen, and some things we don't. We know she likes football and horse racing, and we have heard how she is careful with the pennies and is fond of her dogs.

On the other hand, I have no idea whether she is a big beer drinker.

Yes, there was the story last year about 2,000 pints of beer being delivered to her door just before the England v Croatia match, but officials insisted it was a mistake - the liquor was supposed to have gone to a pub called The Windsor Castle.

Nevertheless, Her Maj probably thought it was her birthday. Well, one of them, at least.

But while we don't know whether our present Queen knocks back a few pints while watching the football, we do know that Elizabeth I was partial to a bevvy or two.

The Swan With Two Necks does not take its name from unusual bird-breeding activities in the area, but from Good Queen Bess's love of ale.

Up until the 16th Century, the swans of England all belonged to the monarch of the day, but Elizabeth was so grateful to the Worshipful Company of Vintners that she donated some of her birds.

Busy

To distinguish the Vintners' swans from their royal cousins, their beaks were marked with two notches, or "necks" as they were known in those days, leading to the pub name The Swan With Two Necks.

Set close to the road, on a moderately busy junction, there is a small parking area to the front, and a larger car park to the rear. There are steps to the front entrance, and wheelchair users would probably be advised to telephone in advance, although there is a side entrance which leads directly to the car park.

The pub dates from 1753, and is very much the traditional village inn. A charcoal aroma wafts from the roaring fire in the middle of the pub, bringing a blast of warm air on a mildly nippy March night.

The more formal, slightly more modern restaurant area at the back of the pub has a wooden floor and a selection of pots and plates, but we were happy to settle in the main area at the front, which offers an identical menu, but a cosier, more olde worlde, environment.

Small village locals are having a tough time at the moment, but the owners of this one are determined not to be hit by the fall in trade. "Why travel to Lichfield or Rugeley? Come and support your local pub," says a poster in the entrance. The pub also does takeaway fish and chips, and I wonder how many husbands return two hours after offering to "nip out and get us some fish and chips."

The front room is split in two by a rustic brick chimney breast adorned by old black-and-white pictures and wartime posters, while the quarry-tiled floors, soft lighting and timber ceiling beams complete the homely feel.

A chalked board declares that the seating in one corner is reserved for "drinkers only", occupied during our visit by a group, probably aged in their 40s, discussing the respective merits of Aston Villa and Birmingham City over the Buddy Holly songs playing in the background.

"Enjoy your meal," said one mature gentleman as he left with his wife, while the group on the next table shared a joke about a flashing light from across the road. The pub proudly displays its credentials as a former Campaign for Real Ale Pub Of The Year, and the young Irish lady who served us seemed knowledgable about the Bathams bitter, brewed in the Black Country, which we both decided to sample.

The food is mainly traditional pub fair, with gammon, home-made steak-and-kidney pie and cajun chicken among the staples on offer.

Prices are towards the higher end of pub food, but were not excessive, with main courses typically around the £10 to £12 mark.

There can be no complaints about the portion sizes, my fillet steak being accompanied by generous helpings of chips, and a veritable mound of carrots. It was simply presented on a large square plate, while my dining partner's poached salmon was an altogether more ornate affair, served on a bed of crushed new potatoes.

We agreed that both the fish and the meat were excellent, my steak being succulent and tender, and cooked exactly as I had asked for, but the chips were a little hard and undercooked for my taste.

Sadly, the cheesecake had been scrubbed from the desserts menu, but there was still a good choice all reasonably priced at £3.95. I was tempted by the bread-and-butter pudding, but in the end went for the chocolate fudge cake with ice cream, which proved an excellent choice, having a pleasant, syrupy texture and a sweet, creamy flavour.

My companion's apple crumble was certainly warm, and there were no complaints about the taste, although it did come with custard rather than the cream that had been asked for.

Charming

The total bill came to £41.75, slightly above average for pub food, but by no means extortionate, and the hard chips apart, the food was very good.

It is a charming, friendly little pub, with a wonderful atmosphere and welcoming staff, and it deserves to succeed in its battle for survival in the face of adverse economic conditions and competition from the big pub chains. I know that if I lived in the area, I would be giving it my support and popping in for a pint or two. In fact, come to think of it, I would consider it my duty to support the Bathams quite a lot.

* We have been asked to point out that Richard and Pamela Tweedie are no longer in charge of the Red Lion at Shatterford, featured in last week's column. It is now owned by Brian and Alison Eton.

ADDRESS

The Swan With Two Necks

Brook End, Longdon, Rugeley, WS15 4PN

Phone: 01543 490251

Main courses

Gammon steak, bubble and squeak and peas £12.95

Breast of duck and orange sauce with potatoes £11.95

Steak and kidney pie with chips and peas £9.95

Lasagne, chips and salad £9.95

Fillet of seabass, new potatoes and vegetables £11.95

Smoked salmon and prawn salad, new potatoes and salad £9.95

Cajun chicken, chips and salad £9.95

Desserts (all £3.95)

Bread and butter pudding

Mixed ice cream

Baileys mousse