Woodman Inn, Claverley

'By The Insider'

Secondly, it would be so much more difficult were it not for the series of excellent recommendations you come up with each week.

And since this column started just over a year ago, there has been one name that seems to have cropped up time and time again: The Woodman at Claverley.

For example, Mrs J Reece said about a recent Sunday lunch: "The food was cooked to perfection and exceptionally well presented. The staff were very attentive, but particularly top marks must be given to the chef for making the occasion so special."

Wendy from West Bromwich is another fan. "Service was fantastic, food was pure quality. It is all fresh produce from the farm next door, and you can really tell. I can't wait to visit again."

Or, in the words of another reader: "The food is elegantly served and full of flavour and the prices very reasonable."

With recommendations like this, I thought it was about time I made my way up the famous Rabbit Run to find out for myself.

The Woodman is a three-storey, double-fronted building which dates back to 1858, and for its first 78 years it was run by the Brazier family.

Since January 2008 The Woodman has been run by brother and sister Tim and Emma Hodgkinson, who previously managed the Beverley Hotel at Walsall.

They place great emphasis on locally-produced food; the vegetables are supplied by "the farm next door", the meat is from nearby, while the bread is made in Kinver; even the coffee is from Shropshire.

A little quirky

It would have been nice if there had been some locally produced ales on offer, though; there was a choice of Boddingtons, Greene King IPA and Spitfire, but these are no substitute for the superb ales produced by our region's many small breweries.

The interior is stylish, and a little quirky. Visitors are greeted by an impressive collection of champagne bottles - sadly they were empty - and an eyecatching line-up of multi-coloured Wellington boots. Some of the walls are painted in a blue-grey colour, while others are covered with a distinctive, pinkish-orange patterned wallpaper (it looks better than it sounds).

The tables, laid with patterned napkins and tea-light candles, are finished in a simple, straight-grain reddish wood. They are surrounded with high-backed chairs neatly upholstered in either a tapestry-type fabric or black plastic.

The pub is divided into three areas, the largest also having a row of bench-style seats built into the wall, while the two small rooms also have plastic "tub" chairs set around low tables, where people can have a natter over a pint or two.

Our table, in the small room at the front of the pub, was next to a large mirror which gave a light, airy feel, and behind us was a high table equipped with car magazines and crayons, which is presumably intended for the use of the younger customers - although I quite fancied a spot of colouring-in myself.

The table next to ours was occupied by two couples, probably in their late 50s, who spent a leisurely evening discussing the state of the nation, while traffic congestion seemed to be the concern for the young couple relaxing around the low table behind them.

Service was spot on. Emma Hodgkinson, a blonde lady in her late 30s, presented us with an elegant set of menus, smartly presented on a wafer-thin wooden board which matched the finish of the table, and brought us a plate of excellent locally-produced bread while we made our choices.

The menu contains many simple recipes, but with a fresh twist; for example, the rack of lamb is coated with a herb crust and served with a rich red wine gravy; the Dover sole is grilled with herb butter and capers. The prices were a little on the high side: £10.50 for liver and bacon, or £19.50 for a fillet steak, but clearly a lot of thought has gone into each item.

Attention to detail

I went for the sirloin steak at £12.50, reared on a farm "very close to the pub", while my dining partner went fillet of salmon - I assume this came from a little further afield - with green pea and asparagus risotto. We both agreed it was superb, and I was left wondering how good the more expensive fillet steak would have been.

But it was not just the basics, the fish and the meat - it was the little things, the attention to detail. It was accompanied by a bowl containing excellent hand-cut chips, delightful dauphinoise potatoes, as well as a swede-and-carrot mash -the latter is not really my thing, but it would be hard to argue it had not been beautifully done.

The lemon curd cheesecake, which was served with a wonderful mascarpone mousse, was also a bit special, and was not excessively priced at £4.50.

The total bill was £35.50, which was reasonable enough, although it could have been a different story if we had indulged a little more. Then again, the food and service were never anything short of excellent. The only real gripe is that it might have been nice to have had a few more chips.

Tim Hodgkinson told me how well the business had gone since he and his sister arrived 14 months ago, and it not hard to see why: locally sourced food, thoughtfully prepared, and served with personal attention from the proprietors, I now know what all the fuss was about.

Which just goes to show, Express & Star readers are right on the money when it comes to knowing the best places to eat.

ADDRESS

The Woodman Inn, Danford Lane, Claverley, WV5 7DG

Phone: 01746 710553

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Home-made soup £3.75; Eggs Benedict - local organic poached egg and smoked bacon served on a toasted muffin with hollandaise sauce £4.50;Pan-fried scallops on green leaves with vinaigrette £6.50; Pan of mussels sauteed with wine, herbs and cream £4.95; Chicken and bacon caesar salad £4.75

Main coures

Whole Dover sole grilled with herb butter and capers £19; Rack of lamb coated with herb crust, served with rich red wine gravy £13.95; Chicken breast in bacon, tomato and herb sauce topped with melted Cheddar cheese £10.50; Whole sea bream grilled with butter and lemon £13.50; Mushroom, brie and hazelnut Wellington £10

Desserts

Knickerbocker glory £5.50; Chocolate sauce, cream and ice cream £5.50; Chocolate pot £4; Home-made honeycomb ice cream £4.50