The Old Irish Harp, Aldridge

Have you ever been to one of those seaside hotels, where the beach seems to get further away the longer you spend walking towards it?

Or the tide seems to get keep going further and further out when you want to go for a paddle? It seemed a bit like this at the Old Irish Harp.

The car park seemed to go on for miles, like one of those giant car supermarkets where you end up in another county by the time you have found what you want. And it was pretty crowded when we came.

Indeed, I thought it was going to prove a fruitless journey when I called in on a Friday night. The place was packed to the rafters, with a group of 40-ish men huddled around the doorway, nursing their pints. Surprising really, given that there are not really that many houses nearby, and most people had clearly come by car.

Viewed from the busy Chester Road, it looks every inch the traditional-but-trendy gastropub, with the rustic, weathered brickwork stylishly set off by the modern lighting.

Yet viewed from the entrance in Little Aston Road, it looks very different; the pub itself can barely be seen in the distance, and the huge car park marked out by an illuminated Tavern Table totem-pole sign gives the impression you are heading for a modern motel. The first time I went past, I thought there were two different places.

The building dates back more than 400 years, having originally been a farmhouse. It later became a place where people paid their taxes, and started supplying the punters with ale, opening as a pub in 1740. A place where people pay tax while they drink? Some things never change.

Because of its position on a busy thoroughfare, it used to attract a lot of common trade, so it is no surprise that the common land surrounding it was a favourite haunt for highwaymen. The notorious Tom King, eventually hanged for his crimes, was born at the Harp, and carried out his business on nearby toll roads. It has also been said that Dick Turpin had been a punter; then again, there are probably not many old pubs that don't have some tale about the old rogue.

There probably wasn't a giant conservatory in Tom and Dick's day, though, which is where the majority of the diners were sat.

The old part of the pub was a much more crowded affair, and I had to squeeze my way through a hoard of punters on the way in.

There was quite a crowd sat around the bar, and one young lady was singing her heart out to a Carpenters track being played over the sound system.

Finding a table proved something of a challenge; the only ones that were unoccupied had "reserved" labels on them.

However, when I managed to collar a member of staff, one of these tables became available.

It was quite a cosy corner in the old part of the building, a few yards away from the front bar. Most of the customers were probably in the 30 to 50 age group - couples, families and friends. It was on the whole quite a pleasant environment, successfully treading the fine line between retaining the traditional character and creating the modern comforts, with the large roaring fire providing a homely atmosphere.

Hanging from the walls were plaques about traditional brewing methods and the history of Marston's ales, although the swirly red carpet did give it a bit look a bit corporate issue. Unfortunately, our table was also directly beneath two loudspeakers, and while the lady at the bar was clearly having a whale of a time, the sounds were a little heavy on the ear drums.

There could be no complaints about the choice, be it food or ale. The mammoth menu had a mind-boggling 75 different options on it, and it probably took a good 10 minutes to read through them.

Having already selected an excellent pint of Cumberland ale from the bar, some Cumberland sausages seemed to be the obvious accompaniment. The menu didn't actually specify where the porkers came from, but cooked in Marston's Pedigree ale and served in a rich ale gravy, they sounded a rather mouth-watering option.

Unfortunately, they were the off the menu (the kitchen had run out of sausages), so they are something I will have to try another day. Food cooked in Marston's beer is something of a house speciality, so in the absence of the bangers, I decided to go for the British beef and Pedigree ale pie, while my companion opted for breaded scampi from the "light bites" menu.

The description on the menu made my pie sound exquisite. "One of the finest pies around!", it claimed. "A deepfilled shortcrust pastry pie oozing with slow-cooked tender chunks of British beef in Marston's Pedigree ale gravy."

Given that it arrived in around 15 minutes, I can only assume it had been slow-cooked at some time earlier in the day, although it tasted quite fresh, and was quite enjoyable, although the chips could only really be described as average. My companion felt the scampi was good value at £4.95.

The pie proved quite filling, and I only wanted something light for afters, and the chocolate profiteroles proved a good choice, while my companion went for the sundae sherry trifle, described on the menu as "just like we used to have on a Sunday for tea." Both were enjoyable, and well-priced at £3.25 and £3.45 respectively.

All the staff were friendly and courteous, although there did not really seem to be enough of them. On more than one occasion I found it necessary to get up and wander around until I found somebody to serve me.

All in all, it was not bad value for £30.55. It is a stylish, relaxing place to enjoy a rather pleasant pint, and the food was generally good and filling. And you can walk it off on the trek back to the car.

The Old Irish Harp

Chester Road, Aldridge, WS9 0LP

Phone: 01922 455968

Starters

Goat's cheese and tomato stack £3.65

Loaded potato skins filled with a choice of ham and melted cheese or Cheddar cheese and hot salsa sauce, with either sour cream and chive or barbecue dip £3.25

Sticky chicken with sauce for dipping £3.95

Field mushrooms filled with a Marston's Pedigree sauce, grilled and served with balsamic glaze £3.75

Salads and pasta

Caesar salad £6.25

Goat's cheese and tomato salad £7.45

Hot rotisserie chicken and crispy bacon salad £7.45

Lasagne £7.25

Chicken spirelli £7.45

Main courses

Cheesy chicken and bacon melt, with Pedigree sauce served with jacket potato and side salad £8.95

Chef's home-made braised beef slowly cooked in Pedigree ale with carrots, swede, celery and onions, served with mashed potato, green cabbage and chunky carrots £7.95

10oz steak smothered in Pedigree ale sauce, with chips and side salad £10.75

Two grilled sea bass fillets on a bed of roasted vegetables with new potatoes and steamed veg £8.95

Desserts

Apple, gooseberry and rhubarb pudding £3.25