Horns Inn, Slitting Mill, Rugeley

Between Rugeley and Cannock, Slitting Mill takes its name from the old watermill which was built around 400 years ago.

The mills, which cut bars of iron into rods for the nail-making trade were actually once a common site in the West Midlands, particularly along the River Stour, where they were conveniently placed for the metal being shipped in along the River Severn, before reaching the nailers of the Black Country.

Anyway, I digress. The reason I found myself braving the icy roads on a cold Friday night was not for a lesson in the Midlands' nailmaking heritage, but to take up reader Trevor Ingleby's recommendation of The Horns Inn.

"For a good traditional meal, The Horns is fantastic, and their chef will flambé your pudding at the table. I guarantee you'll be back for more."

Trevor is not the only one who likes The Horns, either. John Park, who says he normally tries to find somewhere different each time he eats out, rates the pub as one of his two favourite places.

"We went here on a mid-week afternoon and it was nearly closing time. The food came out fresh and the service was excellent," he says.

Just a few yards from the woodland of the Cannock Chase, The Horns is a traditional double-fronted pub, which appears to have had a single-storey extension at some time in the past, and the exterior has been tastefully painted in a clean, light cream finish, with contrasting black window frames. I am told there are attractive views across a fishing lake from the garden area, but on a dark frosty night there was little opportunity to savour the scenery.

Entering by the side door, a small tapestry church-pew style seat sits in a small foyer which is dominated by an eye-catching frosted glass screen displaying the name of the pub, and a picture of a stag's head.

To say the pub was quiet for a Friday night is something of an understatement. There were a few, mainly young, people in the large bar room, some of them playing on the large pool table, but in the restaurant area there was only one other group who appeared to be enjoying a family meal.

But while it was certainly quiet, it was quiet in a pleasant, cosy way, with a large roaring fire and the radiator next to our table keeping the bitter temperatures of the outside world at bay.

An amiable young lady behind the bar seemed to be hard at work, serving drinks to the punters, setting the tables, and acting as waitress for us diners.

There was something of a contrast of styles, as if somebody had started a refurbishment but had not yet completed it. The walls had a stylish two-tone cream and mustard finish, split by a neat dado rail, and the exposed beams to the high ceiling were in a light varnish, giving a bright, modern feel.

On the other hand, there were some interesting old photographs of both the pub and the village, as well as old news cuttings and an interesting painting with details about the artist printed below.

There is a reasonable choice for beer lovers, with Abbot Ale, Adnams and John Smith's all on offer, as well as the usual Guinness and lager. At least I think it was John Smith's. That's what it said on the beer pull, and I was assured that was what I noticed it tasted a little different to normal, but my receipt recorded it as Boddingtons.

If I had some doubts about the decor, there was no such criticism of the food, which really was superb, I would say one of the better meals I have had since the start of this column a year ago.

The choice wasn't massive, but a lot of thought had clearly gone into each meal on offer. I was tempted by the lamb shank with mashed potato in red wine sauce, but instead opted for an 8oz sirloin which was cooked superbly - it actually looked a little on the rare side, but it tasted just right, succulent and tender, and coming with an excellent pepper sauce.

But the piece de resistance was the hand-cut chips, which really were a treat for the tastebuds. These were dark brown in colour and had a gorgeous, crispy coating. My dining partner, who went for a pan-fried chicken breast with bacon, wilted cabbage, onions and new potatoes served in a red wine sauce, agreed that the food was of a very high standard.

There was also an ample supply of vegetables, and while the food took around half an hour to arrive, it was evident that it had all been cooked from fresh ingredients.

If you don't mind waiting another 20 minutes for your dessert, the menu offers a speciality apple and cinnamon crumble which is individually made to order, and the home-made shortbread which comes with the créme brulée is another nice touch. In the end, though, we decided to keep it simple, my companion opting for sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and ice cream, while I went for three scoops of buttercream flavoured ice cream.

As you have probably gathered, I really enjoyed my visit to The Horns, and I think the total bill of £38.90 represents very good value for money. While many places I visit are a case of style over substance, this was the reverse, the substance was much better than the style.

If I owned The Horns, I would revarnish the dining furniture to match the roof beams, and put in a lighter carpet to give the restaurant a contemporary feel, while leaving the bar as it is to appeal to the traditional punters.

Then again, that's probably why the real owner is running a very good pub - and I am writing this column.

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters

Soup of the day; Smoked salmon and prawns in Marie Rose sauce

Main courses

Seared duck breast; Lamb shank served with mashed potato, root vegetables, and red wine sauce; 12oz ribeye steak

Desserts

Vanilla créme brulée, with home-made shortbread; Apple and cinammon crumble, served with custard; Chocolate delice

ADDRESS: The Horns Inn, 61, Slitting Mill Road, Rugeley WS15 2UW

Phone: (01889) 586000