The Swan, Whiston

In my exhilarating world of fast money, fast cars and fast women, I don't like to be messed around.

Ok, I'm slightly exaggerating about the car, which has never quite been the same since one mistook the diesel pump for petrol. Easy mistake to make, of course.

And although it does nothing for my street cred, the last time a fast woman came my way was when I watched Penelope Pitstop as a lad.

But fast money is certainly my bag, and I'm quite ashamed to say I've become rather a slave to the plastic. There's never more than a few bob knocking about in my wallet because, frankly, you just don't need it these days, do you? With the marvellous introduction of chip and pin, cashback and ATMs springing up in the corners of many pubs and restaurants, nipping to the bank, cash book in hand is not one life's worries anymore.

That's what I thought, anyway, until I went to The Swan at Whiston. Well off the beaten track of the A449 Stafford/Wolverhampton Road, it took a good 10 minutes to find the spot, negotiating narrow bends, rolling hills and an angry tractor driver on the way.

Ravenous and parched, which I'm sure had nothing to do with that extra brandy the previous evening, I was hoping for a quick decision to be made on the menu and a hearty meal coming my way very soon.

But my heart sank when we arrived, practically panting, at the bar, to find a hand-written note declaring: Sorry, our card machine has broken.

The dandy young chap behind the bar came to serve us and I enquired whether a cash point might be in the vicinity. Suddenly everything went silent and, hang on, was that a tumbleweed rolling past the window? It would appear cash machines haven't arrived in Whiston yet from the bartender's withering look.

So it was back in the car and back to Penkridge. Had we not heard such cracking things about the The Swan, I'd have been tempted to go elsewhere, but 20 minutes later and cash in hand, we were back in the bar ordering drinks.

Apparently The Swan has been in its spot in some form since 1593. Its latest incarnation is thanks to Jim Davies, who, after it had been boarded up for several years, breathed life back into it in 2000 and has managed to turn it into one of the most successful pubs in the region. And don't just take my word for it, as earlier this year it was named Pub of the Year by the Heart of Staffordshire branch of the Campaign for Real Ale, and has also featured in the organisation's Good Beer Guide since 2003.

But The Swan hasn't always had the luck - in January, it narrowly avoided disaster when the chimney caught fire and destroyed a large part of the roof. Mr Davies has the vigilance of a passer-by to thank who spotted flames leaping from the building as drinkers sat inside unawares.

Thankfully it was saved before major damage was caused, and now it appears business is booming more than ever. Like a certain TV talent show, there's nothing like a bit of drama to boost your profile.

Our visit was a late Sunday afternoon and, blessed with unseasonably warm weather, we were able to see The Swan in all its glory. A group of friends were laughing raucously on a couple of benches scattered in the car park but it was two young families that had the best seats in the house. The beer garden, or should I say beer field, is situated at the other end of the (large) car park and has stunning countryside views.

While the mums sipped their large glasses of white wine, their partners kicked around a football and their six children played merrily in the adventure playground.

Inside it was a quieter affair. As we'd arrived at around 4pm, we'd missed the lunchtime rush and, to be honest, were quite surprised to find food was still being served, and until 8pm as well - rather a rarity for a remote pub on a weekend. There were a couple of local old boys sinking ale in the pool table area.

We were seated on the other side in what at first sight looked like a modest eating area, only to find an adjoining restaurant with enough places for at least 50. While this room looked slightly more plush than our traditional table, we decided to stay put and settling into our cushioned seats, relaxed to soothing sounds of Joss Stone, Louis Armstrong and Chris de Burgh.

We perused the varied menu, only to get flummoxed by the specials board which offered up even more delights and twists on traditional roast chicken and braised beef. The octogenerian matriarch who'd brought along three generations of her family seemed as spoilt for choice as us, getting her eldest son to shout out the many choices to her across the room several times.

It was certainly not fast food. But it was worth waiting for. The Thai fish cakes were packed with flavour and came accompanied by a large salad. My companion ordered the prawn cocktail, which she described as sumptious and extremely filling. The main course came at a well-timed 20 minutes later. The 10oz rib eye steak, was cooked to medium-well done perfection. But the piece de resistance was the vat of pepper sauce that came alongside it.

Having been treated to a bare thimble-worth of the stuff at a less desirable spot a few weeks ago, this was just what the doctor ordered.

As my dining partner watched on wide-eyed, I slurped up the lot, soaking up the last remnants with a huge portion chunky chips. Equally saucy was her stilton chicken, which, covered in pure cheese was devilishly rich.

Having devoured most of the seasonal vegetables that came along with our main courses, there was no chance of us taking up the offer of dessert. Our final bill, which included a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and two cokes for the designated driver, came to £37.85 - several pounds short of the £50 I'd withdrawn a couple of hours earlier.

After our hectic start, this really was Sunday afternoon relaxation at its best.

The Swan

Whiston, near Penkridge ST19 5QH

Phone: 01785 716200

www.swanwhiston.co.uk

Starters

Thai fish cakes with side salad £3.45

Prawn cocktail

Main courses

10oz rib eye steak £14.95, Pepper sauce £2.75, Stilton chicken £9.95

Desserts

Sticky toffee pudding, Apple pie

Open times: Monday-Friday noon-3pm and 5pm-11pm. Saturday and Sunday, open all day from noon.

Closed Monday lunchtimes.