The Waterfall, Old Hill

Try to imagine Waterfall Lane, writes our reviewer, 'The Insider'. Glistening waters cascading down the spectacular rolling hills. Cotswold stone cottages, a giant water wheel and cloudless skies which make it a favourite location for shampoo commercials.

I can't tell you how disappointed I was when I started work in the area 17 years ago, and found it was an industrial estate next to the railway bridge. Put it this way, it's not exactly Bourton-on-the-Water.

Not that that is necessarily a bad thing. There is a lot to be said for the good old-fashioned metal-bashing trades which made our region great, and in my experience some of the best pubs are often to be found in traditional manufacturing heartlands such as Ode 'ill.

The Waterfall pub is actually a good few hundreds yards from the industrial site, and off a fork in the road, making it quite difficult to miss if you are not familiar with the area. Located on the side of a steep hill, it is surrounded by mainly modern houses, and what appears to have once been a chapel is on the opposite side of the road.

According to the Real Ale Pub Guide, "the beer garden has a raised decking area, waterfall and panoramic views" - stone me, it sounds nearly as good as the opening few lines. The elevated position certainly provides an impressive vantage point for viewing the urban landscape, but the waterfall itself proved a bit of an anti-climax - it turned out to be an electric water feature which was switched off anyway.

There were just two parking spaces free when we arrived at around 7.30pm, and there was just one table left in the lounge.

It is a real old-fashioned beer drinkers' pub. Old signs relating to Hook Norton ales adorn the walls (strange, given that it is a Holden's pub), while a glass cabinet houses an interesting display explaining the Burton Union brewing method. It is little features like this which make all the difference, giving the pub a character rarely found in the lookalike pubco outlets.

Wheelchair access was good, with a side ramp running the full length of the pub right the way to the garden at the back, although the steep gradient outside means that it would be necessary to park right outside the entrance.

Less impressive was the fact I had to clear the table of four empty beer glasses and a half-eaten packet of pork scratchings before sitting down. There was quite a friendly atmosphere, though. This is a local's local: middle-aged couples and groups of friends natter around the tables, a few thirty-something men stand at the bar nursing their pints.

A youngish man in an England cricket top is also sampling the fittle, while a man in a T-shirt bearing the legend Anti:Sober reminds you that this is first and foremost a real ale pub.

There were no fewer than nine different ales on offer during my visit: Five from Holdens, plus four guest beers of varying gravities, and I went for the Holden's Original Bitter, while my companion decided Guinness would be good for her.

The smoking ban seems to have made its mark. Two men at the bar were discussing the subject, and there were numerous signs around the pub reminding customers they could no longer light up, including a "no smoking" sign above the fire grate. I hope they use smokeless coal, then.

The menu consists of simple, traditional British fare. It is not a huge choice, but there should be something for most people, with fish, chicken and steak forming the mainstay of the menu, and a huge mixed grill looking excellent value at just £8.25.

Succulent meat

In the end I went for steak pie, while my dining partner went for the horseshoe gammon with pineapple. The cook told me she did not think there was any peppercorn sauce left, despite it being on the menu, but I was pleasantly surprised when it did actually come with the meal after all.

There was no complaining about the size of the portions, which were generous to say the least. And the food was good - the huge steak pie contained plenty of well-cooked, succulent meat, and combined with the huge mound of golden crispy chips, was well worth the £5.95. My companion said the gammon was "excellent".

My companion was so full after her meal that she decided to give the dessert a miss, but I was determined to get the full experience and went for the ice cream sundae which was remarkably cheap at £2. Like the rest of the meal, it was large, coming in a huge, chunky glass and with a thick cracker perched on the top, and a layer of strawberry sauce providing a bit of extra flavour.

The total cost, which included two mains, a sweet, a coffee and drinks, was just over £18, which is pretty hard to beat. It's just as well it was cheap though: The pub would not accept any form of debit or credit card, which seems a bit of an anachronism in this day and age, as does the fact that the kitchen shuts at 8.30pm.

That said, for a simple, basic meal it is good value, and if I was a local I would probably be in there all the time. It's just a shame I didn't discover it 17 years ago.

ADDRESS

The Waterfall, Waterfall Lane, Old Hill, Cradley Heath B64 6RG

Tel: 0121 561 3499

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day, with crusty bread £2; Garlic mushrooms with side salad £2.20;Prawn cocktail, with bread and butter £2.50

Mains

Waterfall Mega Grill - two lamb chops, steak, gammon, pork steak, bacon, two pork sausages, egg, onion rings, half of tomato and mushrooms £8.20; Half of tender roast chicken £5.50; Fried cod £5.25; Sirloin steak with onion rings and mushrooms £7.95

Desserts

Choice of ice cream sundae £2; Fruit pie, with custard or ice cream £1.90; Sponge pudding, with custard or ice cream £1.90