Bridge House Hotel, Penkridge

'The Insider' asks: "Remember the famous quote from Colonel Nicholson in Bridge Over the River Kwai? "One day the war will be over. And I hope that the people that use this bridge in years to come will remember how it was built and who built it."

I think it is probably safe to say that those who constructed the Bull Bridge in Penkridge had a slightly different philosophy.

Put it this way, if the dictionary definition of a bridge, that of "a structure joining the two sides of a road, railway, river etc to allow people or vehicles to cross" is anything to go by, the featureless concrete span across the River Penk at Stone Cross fulfills its brief perfectly.

Now imagine if every bridge in Venice were designed this way, if the famous Rialto bridge was of purely functional design. Would people still be flocking to Ironbridge if it had been constructed in such a nonedescript style? Do you suppose the people who built the Sydney Harbour Bridge saw it as simply a way of getting across the water?

And no doubt, at the time the Bridge House Hotel was built, the river crossing from which it took its name would have been more of a landmark than it is today. Okay, it was probably never going to be on the scale of Tower Bridge, but surely the planners who built this crossing during the late 1970s could have come up with something more imaginative?

It's a shame, because the Bridge House, recommended by Kelvin Brittain who loves to spend time there with his family, really deserves better. Penkridge is a place full of interesting old inns, and each one needs something unique to draw people in. In the case of Bridge House it is the colourful floral displays beneath the windows more than any river crossing which will attract the attention of customers.

The Bridge House's advertising material proudly describes it as "The inn on the water", and indeed there is a pleasant seating area on the banks of the Penk - which is really more of a stream - where people can relax on those balmy summer nights. The atmosphere is spoiled slightly by the traffic whizzing past, though - making a lot of noise as it crosses that bridge.

The interior was of far more interest to The Insider - well it would be, wouldn't it? - and in truth the outward appearance does not do it justice. Far more stylish than the average pub, the interior has been refurbished to give it a stylish, modern feel.

The neatly laid tables, the fresh-looking mint green walls, and the modern artwork on the walls give an atmosphere of relaxed sophistication. Simple but elegant, the black faux leather chairs make for comfortable seating, while the large wicker vase at the side of the room and the unusual hanging lighting display provide something to talk about.

It was very quiet for a Friday night - perhaps the rare outbreak of sunshine meant everyone was having barbies instead. In the one corner, by the window, a group of four middle-aged ladies appeared to be celebrating a birthday, in the opposite corner there was a younger group, and two more customers in the middle. They all appeared to be having a good time, it's just sad there were not more there to enjoy it.

There was no faulting the service, which was pleasant and courteous, a waitress helpfully explaining that as well as the main a la carte menu and the specials board in the corner, there was also a bar menu offering simpler dishes at more modest prices.

The bar menu offered some attractive looking pies, with cottage pie costing just £5.50, or a steak and ale pie at just 40p more. In the end, we both went for the fillet steak, which could be either stilton glazed, or served in a peppercorn sauce as we went for.

The meals arrived in a most ornate style, the steaks elegantly balanced on a bed of mushrooms, looking a real work of art. Of delightful texture, cooked exactly as we had asked and coming with a pleasant sauce, it was hard to find fault with the steak, which came with a generous bowl of delightful home-made chips. It would have been nice, though, if the otherwise well-stocked vegetable bowl had included more than a single slice of carrot.

A good quality, locally-produced real ale would have been the perfect compliment to the meal, but sadly the only offerings came from the brewing giants. There was a reasonable choice, though, with Boddingtons, John Smith's and Tetley's all on offer.

If you do go along, I would recommend the ice cream which is made on a nearby dairy farm. The choice of different flavours was so great that the waitress had to go away and get the full list - my favourite was the honeycomb. My companion went for the chocolate and coffee truffle torte, which I must say sounded tempting.

The bill came to £46.66, which given the quality of the food and surroundings - and the fact we had both selected the most expensive main course - was reasonable enough.

The only real criticism is that the stylish, contemporary decor is perhaps a little clinical - I don't know, maybe something relating to the history of the pub, or maybe some pictures of old Penkridge would just add that personal touch, that little bit of warmth which seemed to be lacking.

Or failing that, they could always build a better bridge.

ADDRESS

The Bridge House Hotel, Stone Cross, Penkridge ST19 5AS

Phone: 01785 714426]

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day £2.95;Spiced prawn, crayfish and mango tian, with lemon and safron vinegar £4.75; Deep fried breaded brie wedge with port, orange and cranberry sauce £4.25; Chicken and apricot ballotine, with onion and ale confit and crusty bread £3.75; Thai-style fishcakes, bedded on mixed leaves, with sweet chilli dipping sauce £4.50 (as main for £9)

Mains

Oven-baked chicken breast, with potato and parsnip rosti and a leek and stilton cream £10; Oven-baked rump of lamb on dauphinoise potato with root vegetable and redcurrant sauce £12; Grilled fillet steak with fondant potato, red onion confit and a wild mushroom and horseradish sauce £15; Thai red chicken curry £9; 10oz sirloin steak £13.50; 10oz ribeye £13.50; Grilled chicken breast topped with bacon, pineapple and gratinated cheese served with home-made chips £10.50

Desserts (all £4.50)

Sticky toffee pudding, with rich toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream; Raspberry creme brulee, topped with a crisp caramel glaze and mint chocolate ice cream; Apricot bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice cream