The Lyttleton Arms, Hagley

Penny pinching, the new rock 'n' roll. Bling is out, thrift is in.

Apparently, everybody is watching their wallets these days, boasting about their latest wheezes to save on the crinkle.

Magazines are filled with features about buying clothes from Primark or charity shops, the Prime Minister tells us to eat our leftovers. There is even a new term specially coined for those who practise the art: The frugalistas.

This probably explains why the gleaming new Aston Martin casually abandoned by the entrance of the Lyttelton Arms was only the standard DB9 model, rather than the big V8. Perhaps the owner was worried about fuel consumption.

No sign of the credit crunch here, then, and the place was heaving. Of course, it was not all Astons. There were also Range Rovers, Mercedes SLs, big BMWs, probably a dozen cars in the car park costing in excess of 50 grand. We fitted right in, then.

The approach is like a pavement cafe in Cannes, only without the sunshine. Elegant people in wraparound sunglasses sit on a huge decking area beneath large, beige canvas parasols, while a gruff beat growls out of the speakers. A security man who looks like something from Men In Black nods visitors in.

The gastropub, in the shadow of Hagley Hall, takes its hard-to-spell name (it was even wrong on one of the two receipts I was given) from the Lyttelton family which has occupied the Hagley estate since 1564.

I gave up counting the customers, but would guess it was in the region of 250, with around 80 actually dining. Apparently, it is a popular haunt for the region's footballers, although I didn't notice anyone famous. A shame really, I would have rather enjoyed a chat with Gareth Barry.

While there might not have been any footballers present during our visit, it does attract a particular type of clientele. Suave, self-confident, young-ish - mainly in the 30 to 55 age group, with a smattering of older people and some immaculately attired twenty-somethings.

It seems a world away from what it was like just three years ago when it was part of the Harvester chain, offering spit roasts for £5.30 a throw and inviting customers to write in with their cheesiest jokes. And I am pretty sure it was never this busy.

The maitree d' took us to our table, right in the centre of the dining room, which was chic-er than chic, cooler than cool. From the teak tables and chairs, the soft lighting, the candle gently burning on each table, to the rustic beams of the ceiling, everything seemed geared to creating an air of relaxed sophistication. In the drinks lounge, customers reclined in leather bucket seats scattered with co-ordinated cushions, while a few people were ushered into the cordoned-off area for private functions.

It was cool in more ways than one, though. Our table was right in the walkway from the huge entrance door, which was permanently open throughout our meal, creating an unpleasant draft.

Service was friendly and efficient, if slightly pushy - within minutes of taking our seats, we were twice asked if we were ready to order, and it did feel a little hurried. Interestingly, the waiter memorised our order without writing it down. He got it right, though, which was quite impressive as we had both asked for deviations from the menu. My fillet steak came with a choice of garlic butter or bearnaise sauce, but I asked for a pepper sauce instead, while my dining partner asked for a goat's cheese and onion tart starter to be combined with some extra vegetables to make a main. An awkward pair, aren't we?

The food looked a little on the small side but was surprisingly filling. I initially thought my steak looked a bit rare, but it actually tasted very good, and the sauce that had been specially made for me was particularly interesting, being golden orange in colour with flecks of black pepper - perhaps the chef was a Wolves supporter.

While the sauce was thinner than I normally like, its strong, spicy flavour really gave the meal that little something extra. My companion was largely pleased with her food, singling out the vegetables for particular praise.

At a place like this, it seems almost rude not to sink a bit of champagne, and if you're feeling a little flush, the Krug weighs in at £110 a bottle.

I really should have gone for it, I am sure my employer would understand the importance of getting the full experience, but instead - I suppose you could say I bottled it - I went for a single £6 glass of Moet and Chandon.

I do think selling champagne by the glass is a good way of allowing people to experience a bit of luxury.

For desserts, my St Clement's cheesecake, served with slices of orange and topped off with a honeycomb-type crunch, proved enjoyable, while my companion went for pineapple pudding, which I thought tasted slightly like pancake batter. She said it was enjoyable, but a little rich and heavy.

The bill, presented with a calling card signed by the waitress and an invitation to win a case of Moet, came to £51.65. Of course, this would have been a lot more had we not restricted ourselves to one drink each, but even so, I think this is more than reasonable.

Reasonable because, when you dine out at The Lyttelton, you are not simply buying a meal.

The price includes one night's membership of an exciting and exclusive club, a sort of throwback to the glory days of the late 1980s, like one of those mythical cocktail bars in an episode of Ashes to Ashes.

And believe me, its members looked to be having much more fun than the frugalistas.

Starters

Freshly made soup £4

Potted salmon, prawns, sauce grebiche and toast £6.50

Asparagus, Cumbrian air -dried ham, poached free range egg and hollandaise £6

Coarse chicken liver pate, onion marmalade and toast £5

Mushrooms, dolcelatte, foccacia and watercress £5.50

Salads and pasta

Greek salad, marinated feta, olives, cucumber, red onion and lemon oregano dressing £7.50/£9.50

Tuna nicoise, free range egg, new potatoes, tomatoes, french beans, olives and anchovies £7.50/£10.50

Linguini, salmon flakes, asparagus, peas and lemon creme fraiche £9/£11

Grills

Lamb chops £14

10oz ribeye £15.50

Swordfish loin £12.50

(all served with chips, burnt tomato, onion salsa, mango and spring onion chilli relish, and a choice of garlic butter or bearnaise)

Fired pizzas

Margherita - mozzarella, tomatoes and basil £7

Piccante - pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapenos £8.50

Quattro fromaggi - four cheeses, roasted pears and rosemary £9

The Lyttleton Arms

Bromsgrove Road, Hagley, DY9 9LJ

Phone: 01562 882213