Express & Star

Bell and Bear, Rowley Regis

This week's meal review by 'The Insider' comes The Bell and Bear in Rowley Regis. On quiz night. We did wonder why almost every spare table in the pub had been reserved when we arrived, he says.

Published

Bell and Bear, Rowley RegisWhat was the name of the machine which Ilie Nastase got down on his hands and knees to talk to on centre court at Wimbledon?

No, I didn't know either. But then again, as my interest in Wimbledon begins and ends with John MacEnroe smashing up the drinks machine in 1984, I was never going to do very well in a pub quiz about tennis.

This week's Insider comes The Bell and Bear in Rowley Regis. On quiz night. We did wonder why almost every spare table in the pub had been reserved when we arrived, and it soon became apparent as the hordes of quiz fans filtered in.

Over the years the Bell and Cross has built up something of a reputation with the real ale-drinking fraternity, and is listed as one of the top pubs in the region by the Campaign for Real Ale's Good Beer Guide.

It is a place of interesting contradictions. First of all there is the location. Rowley Regis is one of those vague areas, which seem to be unique to the Black Country, with no clear boundaries and no real centre. Yes, there is Rowley Village, but that's not where the pub is.

It is the other side of Blackheath, about half a mile from the new Sainsbury's which seems to dominate the town these days.

The Bell and Bear is set well behind the road on the side of a steep hill, and dating back to 1601, the former farmhouse provides a strange contrast with the 1970s-style suburban semis next door. A sign outside explains that in more recent years an extension was built - around 300 years ago.

Apparently you can see the Wenlock Edge from here on a clear day with the aid of binoculars. Yes, I know. You always forget to bring something, don't you?

There is an interesting mix of people inside. Two elderly ladies are sat at a table in the middle of the main room, while a workman in a high visibility vest sits next to the unusual coat stand near the doorway. A copy of the Express & Star has thoughtfully been left on a table for visitors, and this is soon requisitioned by one of the quiz teams.

The decor is an intriguing mixture of the traditional and the merely dated. The attractive wooden bar with mugs hanging along the top, the cast iron fireplace and the red velour seats give a homely, welcoming feel, as do the copper-surfaced tables and the original sloping floors.

So why did they go and spoil it with the horrible yellow and pink vinyl wallpaper, which would look more at home in the kitchen of a 1980s showhouse?

There was no faulting the Black Country welcome, though. Faced with a choice of seven real ales on offer, I felt a bit like the proverbial child in the sweet shop. The lady behind the bar was more than happy to offer advice, inviting me to try one of the beers before committing to the purchase.

The plastic laminated menu had a broad range of choices on offer, mainly traditional offerings such as faggots and mushy peas, beef and ale pie, plus the slightly more exotic chilli con carne and the foot-long Irish sausage (stop sniggering at the back) in a baguette with onion. Local delicacies such as Gornal sausage were also available on the specials board, but we really wanted to know what the roast of the day was.

Turned out it was chicken, which suited my dining partner, but I really wanted to try the Exmoor beef, so I opted for an 8oz fillet steak.

The best thing about my meal was the delightful hand cut chips, which came in a variety of different shapes, and were a crisp, golden colour. The steak itself was pleasant enough, and it did come with several large onion rings, generous helpings of salad and peas. I would have much preferred a few carrots, though, and I do think £15 is quite expensive for a plain fillet steak with no sauce. On the other hand, you could go for the giant 24oz rump - practically half a cow - a bargain at just £14.25.

My companion thought her roast dinner was good value for £7.95, if a touch staid, and would have liked a bit more stuffing. On the other hand, the portions of both meals were more than generous, and they were warm and filling.

I was slightly concerned when my companion opted for the chocolate waffle dessert, half expecting a crispy potato snack covered in molten Cadbury's to arrive. Of course, my fears were unfounded, she said the "gorgeous" hot cake waffle drizzled with rich sugar syrup, and served with a small scoop of ice cream was the highlight of the evening. My chocolate fudge cake was enjoyable too, although I wouldn't go quite so far with the superlatives.

The total bill, with drinks and coffee, was £36.45, which seemed very reasonable, although we did only have one pint of beer and a single glass of rosé between us.

As the questions continued, we became painfully aware of the gaps in our knowledge. Not just tennis, but the general knowledge questions as well.

In addition to the quiz nights on Thursdays and Sundays, there is a Ladies' Night every Wednesday, with special drinks offers for female customers, and the pub recently held its own beer festival.

There is also a special menu for over-55s, and it also offers Chinese and Indian takeaway meals - heavily publicised through posters in the gent's.

The Bell and Bear has the feel of a real neighbourhood pub, something that all pubs need if they are to lure people out of their homes in these cost-conscious times.

It probably won't appeal to the Egon Ronay crowd, but not everybody wants nouvelle cuisine, and if you are looking for a homely, friendly pub, serving good, honest food and a superb range of good real ales, the chances are you won't be disappointed.

Oh, and if you are still wondering, the answer to the question is Cyclops.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day £3.50; Prawn cocktail £4; Potato skins £4.55

Mains

10oz sirloin steak £11.99; 24oz rump steak £14.25; Faggots and mushy peas £7.05; Cajun chicken £8.05; Mixed grill - pork chop, steak, gammon, sausage, bacon, black pudding, lamb chop, egg, chips, peas, salad, onion rings and mushrooms £11.70; Deep fried cod £7.99; Deep fried scampi £8; Chilli con carne £7; Hickory chicken - breast of chicken, topped with a slice of bacon, smothered in a hickory barbecue sauce £7.70

Desserts

Toffee and apple crumble £3.65; Spotted dick £3.60; Mixed ice cream £3.25; Jam sponge £3.60

ADDRESS

Bell and Bear, 71 Gorsty Hill Road, Rowley Regis, B65 0HA

Phone: 0121 561 2196

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