3 Hammers Golf Complex, Coven

Sometimes it pays to broaden your experiences of life, to find out how the other half live. To learn from people who enjoy spending their leisure time in ways that might seem a bit edgy to the rest of us.

That's why this week's Insider comes from a club which caters mainly for swingers.

No, no, no, wash those thoughts from your filthy mind. Not that type of swinger. The other type of swinger.

You know, those people who shout "fore" as they hit a small ball with a long stick. Golfists.

Now my knowledge of golf is restricted to a few sessions on the pitch-and-putt at Bantock Park, about 16 years ago. Or, if we were feeling really adventurous, Walsall Arboretum.

So a visit to the bistro at the 3 Hammers Golf Club, near Coven, sounds like a bit of an adventure. A bit of a journey into the exotic world of handicaps, six-irons and plus fours.

Well, not exactly. I don't know how many of the diners during our visit to the 3 Hammers were of the golfing persuasion, but I suspect probably not that many. Diamond sweaters were conspicuous by their absence, nobody appeared to be wearing tartan three-quarter length shorts. There was a large hen party, and a few groups of friends.

On one table, a party of three couples were still discussing the rights and wrongs of last week's Apprentice final. Nobody seemed to be discussing their time on the fairway with Tarby and Brucie.

Anyway, the reason for my visit was the recommendation from Express & Star reader Nat, who says it is "an ideal place for a special occasion. They go out of their way to add the extra little touches."

The green-and-white signs, with their large sans-serif type face, set against light-brick walls, give the approach to the complex the feel of a municipal leisure centre, an atmosphere that is reinforced by the foyer, which leads to a large golfing equipment shop and a noticeboard containing information for sporting types.

Once inside the bistro, the atmosphere is very different, with lots of pine wood. Low, round tables are surrounded by comfy bucket chairs, with high chairs at the bar. We were a little early for our table, so we decided to spend a few minutes relaxing with soft drinks. Well, it is a sports venue.

When we did decide to take our seats, we were greeted by restaurant manager Terry Gall, a charmingly well-mannered gentleman who engaged in a little gentle banter as he led us to our seats.

The dining area is divided into two sections, a conventional room with light-coloured walls and modern paintings on the wall, and a giant conservatory illuminated by Art-Deco style lamps on the window ledges.

Our table by the window was just the job on a fine, summer evening, although the view was of the car park rather than the course.

It is furnished in a style you would expect to see in a three-star hotel: bright and modern, clean and comfortable, but maybe a trifle antiseptic. The russet red carpet has a rather vivid pattern which lends itself to a corporate feel, but goes well with the orange and green chairs.

There is certainly no complaining about the choice on offer, with 37 different main courses on offer, as well as the chef's specials on a chalk board. If you are only after a light bite, there is a pretty comprehensive range of baguettes, burgers, sandwiches and jacket potatoes, but if you require something more specific, the menu says staff will do their best to tailor a meal to your own personal taste.

The lamb special sounded tempting, but in the end I went for an 8oz fillet steak, with my favourite peppercorn sauce, while my dining partner went for griddled medallions of pork smothered in a Somerset apple and cider sauce served with herb stuffing.

Most of the main courses come with a choice of chips, jacket, new or croquette potatoes or mash, as well as salad and seasonal vegetables, and the portions were more than generous, the large plates heaving with food.

The food was generally pleasant enough, although my companion felt her dish was a little bland. Good but not outstanding was the general consensus.

There was an excellent range of desserts, all at very good prices, and I decided to go for the chef's special, a lemon cheesecake topped with white chocolate flakes and strawberry sauce and accompanied by two scoops of ice cream. And boy, was it cold.

Yes, I know ice cream is meant to be cold, but this one was playing havoc with my filling - probably more a comment on my dentistry than the food, and it did have a very pleasant flavour.

My companion went for the chockarocka pie, a chocolate biscuit base topped with layers of milk and white chocolate striped sponge, finished off with fudge, white and milk chocolate pieces. She was very impressed with the fact it came with two scoops of ice cream, but seemed to prefer mine - which is strange, as I seemed to prefer hers. Oh, such is life.

The total bill was £45.90, which also included a pint of bitter, a large rioja and a cup of coffee, which was not bad given the smart surroundings and the superb service from the pleasant and polite staff.

"Thank you, and hope to see you again soon," said Terry, and indeed he might.

Don't think I'm ready to take up swinging, though.

SAMPLE MENU

Starters

Potato skins stuffed with melted mature cheese and bacon, served with a sour cream and chive dip £3.95; Caesar salad £3.95; Prawn cocktail £4.25; Combo for two - two cheese and bacon potato skins, deep fried mushrooms and onion rings, chicken satays, fish goujons, served with dips.

Mains

Mixed grill - steak, lamb, pork, gammon and jumbo sausage with fried egg, tomato, mushrooms and onion rings £11.95; Reef and beef - 8oz sirloin steak with breaded scampi served with lemon, tomatoes, mushrooms and onion rings £10.95; 9oz breaded plaice fillet, deep fried and served with lemon £9.50; Lasagne verdi pasti with tomatoes and minced beef topped with bechamel sauce and cheese £9.95; Cheese and broccoli bake £8.95;Leek and mushroom crumble £8.95; Lamb shank marinated in mint and oven baked with onions, served with creamy mashed potato, seasonal vegetables and minted gravy.

Desserts

Mixed Ice cream with whipped cream and wafer, topped off with a choice of sauce £2.95

ADDRESS

3 Hammers Golf Complex, Old Stafford Rd, Coven WV10 7PP

Phone: 01902 791917