Arbor Lights, Walsall

You know the feeling. You have gorged yourself on a giant mixed grill, and the waitress hands you the desserts menu, writes 'The Insider'.

Temptation can be hard to resist, something I am only too acutely aware of as I contemplate my review of Walsall's Arbor Lights.

Its name is a tribute to the annual illuminations show in the town's arboretum, and it certainly brought a smile to my face.

But like I say, temptation can be a dangerous thing. And at the moment it is taking all my steely resolve not to fill this review with cheesy puns about Arbor Lights shining bright, like a culinary beacon, with burning ambition.

Ok, enough, enough. But it has to be said the approach to the pub is not particularly illuminating. Tucked away in Walsall's slightly underwhelming Lichfield Street, which seems to be occupied mainly by solicitors' offices, it is quite easy to miss. And the roadworks which had closed off the end of the street hardly added to the vibrancy.

Yet word had obviously got out. The street outside may have been deserted, but behind the stylish cream facade, this chic new kid on the block was doing a roaring trade - surprisingly so, given the present economic climate.

Arbor Lights has only been going five years, but has built up a pretty good reputation since. Praised by the Gourmet Society, the pub has also won plaudits from the Campaign for Real Ale and, most importantly, was recommended to The Insider by Ben who works nearby.

Its owner Judith Hanley previously worked in Paris with a number of top furniture and fashion designers, before helping create the costumes for Andrew Lloyd Webber's Cats. She also designed clothes for Monsoon, and for a time had her own fashion label.

Good thing I was wearing a tie, then.

It goes without saying the place has plenty of style, the exposed wooden floorboards going well with with the slick minimalist furnishings. The bar is finished in a stylish reddish coloured wood, with lighter panels inset, and the well-stocked wine rack, the array of bottles, and the good choice of ales give a welcoming, busy feel.

On entry we were greeted by a cheery young man with a floppy blond mop and a tight black V-neck pullover - don't they make you feel square? - who took us to our seats by the window.

The large open-plan room is in two sections: to the one side is the bar area, with tall, russet-coloured tables and high-backed chairs. The atmosphere is pleasantly lively: Not in-your-face loud and heaving, just cheerful and convivial, the mainly young-ish punters nattering as they gently jostle for position at the bar.

The dining area is furnished in similar style, with a mixture of wooden chairs and church-pew style seating. An open wall unit, which would not have looked out of place in Abigail's Party, breaks up the area.

The pub was pleasantly lit - well, what would you expect? - with small chandeliers and wall lamps bathing customers in a pleasant pool of light. To add to the ambience, the tables had candles on them: Unfortunately, the one on our table had gone out.

Our table was also slightly cramped, and as I settled into position my chair collided with that of the lady behind.

The floppy-haired man was polite and attentive, although when asked about the spring vegetables he confessed "veg aren't my thing."

With a choice of 11 main courses, the menu was not huge, but a lot of thought had gone into it. I considered the double lamb cutlet on baked potato cake and roasted tomato and berry jus, but was put off by the fact the lamb was served pink, and in the end opted for the 10oz rib-eye served with lyonnaise potatoes and dijonaise sauce.

My dining partner opted for the baked field mushrooms in puff pastry, with a chive and rosemary mascarpone.

It certainly lived up to its reputation. My food was immaculately presented, with the steak neatly laid on a bed of thinly-sliced potatoes, caramelised with onions, and the sauce was superb.

My companion was delighted with her mushrooms, and the side-order vegetables were cooked just right. It was also rather more filling than it looked, and the side order of seasoned chips I hastily requested in a panic when my main course arrived proved superfluous.

I still ate them, mind.

Indeed, I had over-indulged by the time the sweet menu came, but as said earlier, temptation is hard to resist. We both opted for the chocolate swirl, a delightful glass of mint ice cream layered with chocolate. and concurred they were very good, a nice touch being the bed of muffin at the bottom.

There was a good choice of wines, although the list of "champagnes" included one wine from Spain - naughty, naughty. We opted for a bottle of Trebbiano which, while not a favourite of the critics, was pleasant enough and good value at £12.25, taking the total bill to £54.30.

The lack of vegetable knowledge aside, the young floppy-haired chap was always polite, as was the brunette waitress who also attended to us, and they were constantly asking if everything was to our satisfaction.

And on the whole it was. In fact you could say this is a glowing recommendation. Sorry.

ON THE MENU:

Appetisers to share - Bread and olives £4.75

Spanish tapas - red and green peppers stuffed with feta, mixed olives, freshly-made humus and sun-blush tomatoes £6.95

Continental meat tapas - a selection of continental cured meats, lemon chicken, chorizo sausages and salsa £8.50

STARTERS

Chef's home-made soup, with rustic bread and unsalted butter £4.25

Black Country Pate - chicken liver pate served with a red onion jam and country toast £4.95

Pan fried king prawns served on a mixed salad bed drizzled in a rum and sweet chilli sauce £6.25

Asparagus hollandaise wrapped in Black Forest ham served with poached duck egg £6.25

MAINS

Chicken breast stuffed with red onion duxelle, served with a brandy and mushroom sauce, sauteed potatoes and a warm salad £14.25

Norfolk belly pork with pear and chilli jam, served on spiced saute potatoes with red cabbage £12.95

10oz rump steak on fondant potato with wilted greens, in a pool of red wine reduction and sunblushed tomato butter £16.95

Seafood pasta - salmon, mussels and crayfish in a rosemary and apple cream sauce, tossed fresh herbs and pasta £11.75

Beer battered barramundi, served on a potato confit, spiced ratatouille and tarragon pesto £15.25

Celery, mange tout and mint risotto £8.95

ADDRESS

Arbor Lights, 127-128 Lichfield Street, Walsall WS1 1SY

Tel: 01922 613361