Don Salvo, Wolverhampton
Cool. A much over-used adjective in today's vocabulary. Sometimes it is used as an expression of lukewarm approval, at other times little more than a trendy (or should that be cool) way of saying "yes."
Cool. A much over-used adjective in today's vocabulary. Sometimes it is used as an expression of lukewarm approval, at other times little more than a trendy (or should that be cool) way of saying "yes."
But when used to describe the Don Salvo Italian restaurant in Wolverhampton's Darlington Street, "cool" really does seem something of an understatement. Sub zero, Antarctic maybe. But certainly cooler than cool.
I decided to give Don Salvo a try after receiving a glowing recommendation from Express & Star reader Nicola Price, who said she had been visiting the restaurant with a group of French friends up to three times a week.
I was also intrigued to see how it had changed; then called Geppettos, the restaurant was the venue of choice when a group of thrusting young hacks decided to hold a Christmas bash back in 1995. Thirteen years on, the place has changed beyond recognition - then again, probably so have we.
My dining partner and I were greeted on arrival by manager Vittorio Catellani, a charming and courteous gentleman who took us to our table in the window.
And we probably had the best seats in the house. Slightly elevated from street level, and surrounded by huge plate glass windows, our position in the corner offered an unrivalled view, even if it was of the discount store on the corner of Waterloo Road.
Actually, as my companion pointed out, there were several attractive Georgian buildings which could be seen from our table, and anyway, dining at Don Salvo is probably more about being seen than what you can see.
And the interior of the restaurant certainly was a sight to behold, and quite different from the old Geppettos.
The main dining area is on two levels, a glass screen separating diners on the mezzanine floor with those on the lower level.
A set of stairs, of the kind more usually seen in docklands loft apartments, lead to an upstairs cocktail bar, while even the toilet is something of a style statement - the capacious washroom is accessed by a marble-walled corridor beneath the main dining area, with a minimalist black leather sofa where you can relax with your copy of GQ magazine, or whatever it is that cool people read.
Grey marble is the dominant theme, the tables having a dark speckled finish, with a light, contrasting floor so clean you could probably eat pasta from it.
At the side of each table is a freestanding ice bucket, rising from the floor on a metal column in a style slightly reminiscent of a supersized Olympic torch.
I considered giving the Cristal a try, but I had a vision in my mind reminiscent of those benefit fraud adverts, only with me sitting in the leather chair trying to justify my expenses.
Suddenly that £4.75 glass of house sparkling white seemed cool enough. The wine was nicely chilled, and served in a stylish Moet and Chandon flute - very cool indeed.
The service was impeccable, and the waitress did explain beforehand that vegetables were not included in the price of the mains.
A few weeks ago this column complained about how some continental restaurants add a 10 per cent "voluntary" service charge to the bill, and Don Salvo had wisely decided to ditch this practice.
The prices were rather steep though. Charging £16.50 for a filletto al pepe - fillet of beef in peppercorn sauce with brandy - is expensive in any language when you then have to pay another £2.95 for a bowl of vegetables, and a further £2.50 if you want some chips. It was very good, however.
As regular readers of this column know, The Insider is partial to a bit of beef, and the Italians do seem to know a thing or two about how to turn a steak into something special.
But while I loved my main, my companion was less impressed with the pollo all' aglio. The menu described it as a "breast of chicken with garlic butter, pan fried with wine sauce, coated in breadcrumbs". Her description was a little more succinct: "A glorified chicken kiev" were the exact words.
She felt there was insufficient sauce given the £9.95 asking price, and also said the vegetables were undercooked and too hard.
The coffee ice cream in meringue dessert sounded delightful, and it lived up to expectations. It looked a little on the small side, but proved surprisingly filling. My companion felt it could have been better, although she did enjoy the rich chocolate sauce.
The total bill came to £58.65 for two courses each, three glasses of wine, an orange juice and a coffee. There is a set menu for £8.50, but the options are somewhat specific, and the deal only applies on weekdays before 5pm.
While it seemed to be doing a good trade on the Friday night we visited, a member of staff did say it was much quieter in the week, making one wonder, in these cost-conscious times, whether there might be a niche for a more basic - and cost effective - menu from Monday to Wednesday.
Don Salvo is clearly where the beautiful people hang out: young and chic, cosmopolitan but refined, it is patronised by the types you might expect to see in the trendier parts of Milan.
Yet the courteous and attentive service, coupled with the stylish yet relaxed ambience, means it is quite easy to fit in, and feel pretty cool yourself.
Some fashionable restaurants make you feel older and uglier the moment you step through the door, but Don Salvo is not like that. It might make you feel poorer on the way out, though.
The Insider
What else The Insider found at Don Salvo
Starters - Zuppa della cass, Italian soup with crusty bread £4.75; Mozarella verde, buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and avocado with olive oil £6.25; Fritto misto, mixture of seafood £8.50; Bresaole prosiutto, mixture of Italian meat and cheese £8.95
Mains - Bistecca grigliata, grilled sirloin £13.95; Pollo grigiliato, grilled chicken breast £9.50; Spaghetti alla carbonara, fresh cream egg, bacon and pepper £9.25; Fegato alla Veneziana, calve's liver cooked in brandy with a rich onion and sherry sauce £12.95; Bisteca foresteria, sirloin steak smothered with red wine and mushroom sauce £16.95; Pesce spada alla ghiotta, swordfish in rich red wine, tomato, caper and garlic sauce £17.95
House breads - Bruschetta aglio burrao e mozzarella, Ciabatta bread with garlic butter and mozzarella cheese £4.95; Bruschetta di pantofole, Ciabatta with spicy Italian salami sprinkled with flaked parmesan £5.25
Salads - vegetables & potatoes - Insolata di caprone, rocket, radish, mixed olives, parmesan, cherry tomatoes and lemon juice with olive oil £4.95; Fried courgettes £2.50; Mixed salad £4.45; Sautee potatoes £2.25
