Dudley Arms, Himley

You know you shouldn't, but it's got to be done, writes 'The Insider'. Scouting around the Dudley Arms to see if anybody resembles King Edward VIII.

The infamous monarch is said to have been a regular at the pub during the 1920s and 1930s, with his own private gateway from nearby Himley Hall, and is supposed to have been very popular with the local ladies.

Legend has it there might be quite a few people in the area with more of a claim to the Windsor fortune than the present incumbents.

If the real King of England was among the guests at this busy pub, he was keeping his head down, but there was a Queen Bee - the lady behind the bar who used the non-de-plume while processing The Insider's food order.

The Dudley Arms has changed a lot over the years. Once a fairly exclusive restaurant, it has been reinvented to give it a more mass-market appeal, offering carveries from £3.99 at lunchtimes, rising to £5.95 on Friday and Saturday nights.

The previously unusual split-level layout with a large open staircase has given way to a more conventional open-plan ground floor, with the upstairs turned into a function room.

The decor is clean and smart, if slightly brash, with warm, peach-coloured walls adorned with Mediterranean-style paintings.

The immaculately varnished, olde-world timber beams of the ceiling flank the not-so olde world ventilation ducts, but the under-seat heating certainly makes for a cosy and relaxing atmosphere.

The purple and green wall signs are a bit of a blow to the optical nerves, although the vehicle outside, bearing the words "There are no stuffing balls or Yorkshire puddings left on this van overnight" could not help but bring a smile to the face.

The new approach certainly seems to be working for Dudley Arms owner Don Hirst, who took over the pub just over five years ago. The Insider visited on three occasions during the course of the week, and it certainly seemed to be doing a good trade.

While it may no longer be frequented by royalty, the pub serves a pretty good cross-section of the community: in one corner an extended family tucked in, on another table a group of middle-aged ladies appeared to be having a natter, and there seemed to be a few elderly couples.

Overall, the clientele seemed to be geared slightly towards the mature end of the market, with a smattering of younger business types diving in and out to chatter on their mobile phones in the vestibule.

Many of the customers appeared to be regulars, with a man called "Phil" chatting to the Queen Bee at the bar, and the carveries seemed to be the popular meal of choice.

The temptation was to go with the flow, but there was a last-minute rush of rebellion from The Insider, who decided to opt for a 10oz ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce, while his dining companion opted for cod, chips and vegetables. While a little pricier than the carveries, it was still hard to fault the value, the ribeye costing a very reasonable £8.95 - plus an extra £1.30 for the sauce - and the fish a modest £6.25.

The Queen Bee proved to be most friendly, patiently explaining the ordering system to The Insider who made heavy weather of what was really a very simple process.

Service was courteous and prompt, and the portions were generous to say the least. While The Insider is firmly of the "waste not, want not" school of thought, it was just too much even for him, and a few carrots were left on the plate. And the food was good: the vegetables well-cooked, the meat tender and tasty, the fish just right.

If truth be told, the experience was better than expected. The Insider was a little sceptical about the gaudy advertising and seven-day budget carveries, but it was actually an enjoyable and good-value meal.

Maybe not quite fit for a king, but more than good enough for us commoners.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day £2.75; Luxury prawn cocktail £3.45; Hot crispy chicken goujons £2.95; Deep fried breaded mushrooms £2.95

Main courses

8oz rump steak £7.25 (plus £1.30 for sauces); Chicken tikka masala £6.75; Breaded plaice £6.50; Scampi £7.25

Opening hours

Lunch: Mon-Sat, 12-2pm. Sunday: 11.30am to 4.30pm

Evenings: Mon-Thurs, 5.30pm to 8.30pm. Fri-Sat 5.30pm to 9pm

ADDRESS

Dudley Arms, Wolverhampton Road, Himley, Dudley, DY3 4LB

Phone: 01902 892223