Penn Cottage, Lloyd Hill, Wolverhampton

When the popular Penn Cottage pub restaurant on the outskirts of Wolverhampton underwent a major image change towards the end of 2006, I heard quite a few people use the words: 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

But 14 months later, and the new look eaterie is still reaping the rewards of its grand transformation, and has even won an award.

The previously very welcoming and family-orientated Penn Cottage Beefeater pub was completely rebranded by its owners Mitchells & Butlers.

It became the first Miller & Carter Steakhouse in the country, and was given a luxurious new look with soft brown leather seating and rich furnishings. Today it still looks brand spanking new, and its also very pleasing to see that those "new business" standards are still extremely high.

Famished at the tail-end of a difficult day, my colleague and I decamped to the Penn Cottage (it's still known as that) with a meaty mission in mind.

The menu was huge, but my hungry eyes darted straight to the steaks, and I knew immediately that an 8oz sirloin (£12) with pepper sauce (£1.30) was exactly what I needed.

Sticking with the hearty theme, I chose chicken soup (£3.50) to start, which claims it is "for the soul". And indeed it was. Packed full of chunky ingredients, it was the kind of bowl of goodness you crave when you are housebound with a cold. It also came with ciabatta and was lightly spiced with chilli. Truly delicious and so much more than just a soup.

My colleague had prawn cocktail, which looked like an extravagant dessert when it came to the table but was actually just very lovingly prepared in a large glass.

She said it was bursting with prawns and tasted quite spicy, which gave it an exciting twist.

My main meal was so large it was presented to me in two stages. First came the bowl of iceberg lettuce, and I was given the choice of three toppings to cover it with. I went for bacon with honey mustard over parmigiano and croutons or crumbled blue cheese.

My succulent steak was then delivered to me with a jacket potato and delicious onion loaf, and the pepper sauce was dark, thick and creamy.

My colleague had smoky barbecue chicken (£9), which was a chicken breast smothered in streaky bacon, melted cheddar and barbecue sauce, with onion loaf and fries.

Our conversation was put on hold for a fair few minutes while we concentrated on our feast.

We were told we should not leave without trying the famous banoffee pie. Who were we to argue?

So despite our expanding tums, my friend went for just that (£4) and I greedily eyed up an ice cream sundae (£4.50).

My sweet extravanga came with profiteroles, chocolate ice-cream and sauce, and had I not been in the company of others, I would have licked the bowl it was so gorgeous.

I didn't try the banoffee pie, but my pal said it lived up to its reputation.

Our meal was washed down with a glass of sauvignon blanc (£3.20) and merlot (£3.20).

There was a nice atmosphere while we were there, with tables of ladies who lunch, businessmen and couples enjoying a bite to eat.

There is also a special daytime menu, where two courses cost just £8.50. A separate menu is available for children.

And while this isn't a loo review, I still feel the need to tell you that the toilets are really nice and clean and come with their own large individual mirror.

Now back to that award. Miller & Carter was named Food Concept of the Year at a posh restaurant bash in London this week, and it's easy to see why.

I overheard a gentleman sitting nearby us telling a waitress he thought the place was marvellous, and I couldn't agree more.

ADDRESS

Penn Cottage, Lloyd Hill, Wolverhampton

Tel: 01902 896264

By Becky Sharpe