Express & Star

The Moat House, Acton Trussell

Anyone who believes fine dining is reserved for city centres should visit The Moat House in Acton Trussell to have that myth blown out of the water.

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Anyone who believes fine dining is reserved for city centres should visit The Moat House in Acton Trussell to have that myth blown out of the water.

From the moment diners book at the acclaimed restaurant, service is impeccable and its food is out of this world.

From a text message booking reminder to the request for mobile phones to be switched to silent mode, The Moat House knows the importance of getting the finer details spot on.

The luxurious restaurant and hotel is tucked away in a secluded rural spot, yet is just a stone's throw from Junction 13 of the M6 making it extremely easy to access.

From the moment people arrive at the imposing 14th Century moated manor house with its picturesque lake outside, it is evident they are in for a treat and its a la carte restaurant is the jewel in its crown.

On a recent evening visit we enjoyed a drink next to the bar's open fire before being led to our table in the comfortable conservatory restaurant where elegant blinds were drawn to create a warm atmosphere. We sampled a range of starters including the ravioli, £9.95, which scooped chef Matt Davies second place to celebrity chef Marco Pierre-White in a prestigious competition.

The combination of flavours from the king prawn and smoked salmon ravioli teamed with leek fondue, poached egg yolk, salmon foam and caviar made it probably the finest starter I have ever tasted.

The goats cheese, £8.25, was also delicious and featured a fondant of goats cheese, shallot tatin, basil puree, pistachio nut praline and herb salad.

But praise also has to go to the foie gras, £9.95, which featured foie gras with apple and rosemary puree offset perfectly by a tangy Madera jelly.

Choosing from the array of main courses is a difficult task as all are so well thought out and equally appealing.

But the signature rosette, £21.95, dish was divine and certainly one not to be missed. A rosette of succulent Staffordshire beef fillet was accompanied by a delicious oxtail 'bon bon', shreds of oxtail deep fried in a potato coating, wilted spinach and baby onions topped with a tasty red wine truffle sauce.

The lamb, £19.95, was on a par with the dish and was the kind of melt-in-your-mouth meal that can never be faulted.

It featured a cannon of lamb with slow cooked shoulder, provencale vegetables, spinach, celeriac puree and lamb jus.

Both dishes were accompanied by perfectly cooked carrots, green beans and potatoes.

The high standard of meals meant the dessert had a hard act to follow but, not surprisingly, the lemon dish, £6.95, did not disappoint.

The attention to detail in presenting the portions of lemon posset, lemon cheesecake, lemon and tarragon ice-cream, Italian meringue and confit lemon made it that extra bit special.

Each of the different lemon offerings tickled the tastebuds perfectly and tasted amazing. It was a wonderful end to an unfaultable dining experience.

Group executive chef Matt Davies, who has worked at some of the country's finest restaurants including The Savoy in London, has spent around 10 years carefully crafting The Moat House's menu. He believes a Michelin star is now within reach and it is easy to see why.

The level of skill required for each dish is admirable and every plate leaves the kitchen exquisitely presented to get an immediate wow factor from diners.

Mr Davies says: "It takes a great deal of skill to get to the standard we have achieved.

"The food is of Michelin star quality and we believe that is within reach." He adds: "Gordon Ramsay has eaten here twice and was impressed to find such high standards outside London and other big cities."

It is difficult to think of another restaurant in the area that exceeds the quality of The Moat House and the Michelin star that staff are aiming for is an accolade it deserves.

The Moat House is a must for anyone who loves fine dining.

Michelle Pearson

The Moat House

Lower Penkridge Road

Acton Trussell

Tel: 01785 712217

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