Dunsley Hall Hotel, Kinver

Dunsley Hall Hotel, Kinver

Tucked away in a quiet corner of south Staffordshire is one of the county's most historically important buildings and finest dining experiences.

With oak panelled walls, exposed 15th century timber frames, roaring log fires and eight acres of landscaped grounds, Dunsley Hall, on the outskirts of the pretty village of Kinver, is the quintessential English manor house.

Dating back to 1304, the hall was all but hidden away from prying eyes by its previous owners but it is now open for everyone to appreciate.

Purchased and extensively renovated by the Beardsmore family in 2006, the Grade II listed building now offers some of the finest cuisine in the area and is a magical venue at which to enjoy an evening meal.

My girlfriend and I visited on a cold, crisp winter's evening and were grateful to warm our chilled bones beside the log fire while sipping on a glass of red wine. The basic menu has five dishes to choose from for the starters, main courses and desserts, although we were the guinea pigs for the new tasting menu which the new owners hope to introduce early next year. The tasting menu will give diners the opportunity to try smaller portions of all the dishes included on the main menu.

We were shown through to the restaurant which has seating for 40 people and which has been tastefully decorated for Christmas. The restaurant is situated in one of the oldest parts of the building and used to serve as the servants' quarters, although we were made to feel like royalty by restaurant manager David Parry.

No expense has been spared in turning the hotel into a unique experience and the attention to detail is impressive. The first course was a veloute of broccoli with goat's cheese truffle served with three different varieties of home-made bread, including honey, raisin and cumin, sun-blushed tomatoes and olive and parma ham with basil and parmesan cheese.

The hotel only uses produce sourced from local suppliers and grows many of its own vegetables and herbs in its Victorian walled garden which explained why the veloute, which can be used as a dip or drunk cappuccino-style, tasted so fresh. The next course was grilled mackerel with cauliflower, star anise and parsley which was not too overbearing as mackerel sometimes can be.

Inside Dunsley Hall Hotel

The skin was crispy, the meat tender and cooked to perfection, the sauce creamy and the star anise gave it a delicate taste.

We were then served a salad of Black Forest smoked ham with figs, mozzarella, salted grapes and aged balsamic vinegar which sounded complicated, but all of the different tastes and textures worked perfectly together.

The saltiness of the ham was offset by the sweetness of the grapes and the acidity of the vinegar was balanced by the figs.

However, the next course of roasted halibut, courgettes and sauce vierge topped it. Not usually a big fan of fish, I found the halibut meaty and not as overpowering as the mackerel, while the courgettes were tasty and the delicious sauce vierge complemented the dish nicely.

Feeling full by this stage, we were soon presented with a plate of slow-cooked beef with celeriac, spinach, leeks and red wine jus which was so tender it barely needed cutting.

The final course came as something of a relief as we were both feeling very full when the lemon tart with vanilla ice cream and honey arrived. The tart was light and refreshing and the ideal way to round off a fabulous meal.

A word of warning, though - fine dining in such luxurious surroundings does not come cheap. For the privilege of being the first to try the new tasting menu we were charged nearly £90 and we were told it would cost more when it was introduced.

Although the bill did admittedly include three glasses of good house red wine, we were shocked when we were confronted with the cost. However, as a place to celebrate a special occasion or as a venue for a romantic meal, Dunsley Hall is the perfect setting.

The restaurant and bar are open Mondays to Saturdays from 6.45pm with last bookings being taken at 9.30pm and at lunchtimes Wednesdays to Sundays from 11.45am with last bookings being taken at 1.30pm. The restaurant is closed to non-hotel residents on Mondays and Tuesdays.

ADDRESS

Dunsley Hall Hotel, Dunsley Road, Kinver

Tel: 01384 877077

By Jonathan Wood