Don Salvo, Wolverhampton

Approaching its first birthday, Don Salvo in Darlington Street is thriving at the heart of Wolverhampton's restaurant scene.

And like any good Don, it knows how to part you from your hard-earned cash.

The opening Salvo is to invite you upstairs to enjoy a cocktail from an extensive menu.

The intoxicating concoctions are certainly a pleasant way to begin the evening as you relax on a sofa, sipping an exotic drink.

And when you are ready for your table, the menu has a whole host of dishes threatening to empty your pockets.

Unsure of my stomach's ability to consume a starter, I reluctantly bypassed the antipasti section.

Denying such tempting sounding treats as mussels served in white wine and tomato sauce, Scottish smoked salmon with papaya and blueberries, fresh calamari in red wine and tomato sauce blended with garlic and herbs or carpaccio di filetto feggiano - fresh cold raw beef fillet, olive oil and lemon juice with flaked parmesan is not the easiest challenge I have ever risen to.

But having spied a dish I hadn't tasted since early adolescence and one which I had recently remembered and subsequently longed for, I just had to order astice thermidor for my main course.

Having just returned to these shores from a lengthy holiday, it doesn't seem that incongruous being sat in an upmarket restaurant on a Monday evening, ordering such an extravagant meal.

The dish of half a fresh lobster in a cream, mustard and brandy sauce, grilled with flakes of parmesan cheese until golden brown was a delicious slice of nostalgia.

At a price of £19.95, it is not cheap, but for those wanting to push the boat out for a special occasion - such as the aforementioned Monday night in Wolverhampton - it is a succulent, salty, unctuous dish that will leave you wanting the other half.

My partner, being vegetarian, opted for the mezzelune con salsa di caprino.

This was a half moon pasta filled with wild mushrooms in a goats cheese sauce topped with roasted flaked almonds.

She said it was lovely, a very large portion, very rich with a discernable filling of mushroom both very tasty and with a meaty texture.

The almonds added texture and the sauce was very cheesy with a nice sharpness to it.

There are also a range of traditional pasta dishes, chef's fish specials, steak, chicken, veal and calves liver courses, a charcoal grill selection and house bruschetta to choose from.

Vegetable sides include french fries, asparagus in garlic butter and pan fried spinach in garlic butter.

Despite being more than full we thought it necessary -Êfor review purposes only of course - to at least share the classic Italian dessert, tiramisu.

The cake, made up of biscuit drenched in marsala wine, with marscapone cheese, fresh cream, chocolate and cocoa powder is always a good way to round off a meal.

This version added fresh strawberries and blueberries which complemented it well.

Other standards included cheesecake with a lime twist, profiteroles, strawberries and cream and a cheese and biscuit selection.

Starters range from £4.45-£8.95, main courses are from £7.95 to prices such as I paid for the lobster, desserts around £4-£5, while house wines are £14.25 although you could indulge in a £75 bottle of barolo pio cesare if you wanted to.

The £600,000 revamp that transformed the former Geppetto's has left a light, airy and sophisticated dining space and the service is efficient without being over attentive.

Don Salvo is a tribute to the elegant and simple flavours of Italy, serving high quality ingredients in the traditional, unfussy way, letting the flavours speak for themselves.

I'll leave you with a word of advice you will do well to heed. Show the Don some respect, pay him a visit and the rewards will come your way.

Nick Pritchard

25 Darlington Street

Wolverhampton

WV1 4HW

01902 712819