Badger, Eccleshall

While half the pub remains a traditional bar area which was busy on the Saturday night I paid a visit, the other half has been transformed into a modern, airy, up-market restaurant.

We were met by tasteful, elegant decor and fittings, with warm, subdued lighting.

Despite the creation of such a contemporary, minimalist restaurant area, its link with the past is highlighted in the menu by an introduction which outlines some of the pub's long and fascinating history.

Initial impressions were favourable. The menu offered a wide choice for all tastes, including an impressive selection of fish and vegetarian dishes, plus a good wine list.

My companion chose pan-fried black pudding - served with poached apple, parma ham and sweet potato mash - as his starter (£4.95), which was given the thumbs-up.

I sampled the chicken liver, brandy and pork pate (£4.75). It was rich and flavoursome without being overpowering, nicely countered by the sharpness of the green salad and the sweetness of the caramelised onions.

The variety of textures and flavours in the starters worked well, showing real thought and imagination.

For the main course, my friend plumped for the carbonnade of beef (£9.50) - perfectly cooked and tender braising steak in a delicious sauce.

After the slight disappointment of missing out on the fillet of skate on a fennel salad, which had sold out, I decided on the fillet of seabass (£11.50) on wilted greens in a chive butter sauce. It was a delicious dish.

For dessert I went for the traditional cheesecake while my companion had little hesitation in selecting the treacle pudding (both £3.95), which was wolfed down.

The Badger offers excellent food, a comprehensive menu and prompt, attentive service.

My only slight niggle was the fact that the large, open restaurant was a bit cold on a mid-March evening and, as the place got busier, we waited a tad longer than expected to order desserts.

ADDRESS:

The Badger, Green Lane, Eccleshall

Tel: (01785) 850564

By Wyn Matthews