Memsahib, Compton

This gem of a restaurant is tucked away on the outskirts of Wolverhampton and combines fine Indian cuisine with great service and a relaxing environment.

But before you start to worry that their prices will be extortionate to match the exuberance, you can rest assured that this place offers good value for money.

It is a case of you get what you pay for and if great food in a great place is your kind of thing, this is well worth a visit. It felt like we had walked into the home of an English aristocrat in colonial India during the time of the British Raj.

With white walls, calming foliage, terracotta tiles on the floor and water features, it is a lovely place to relax and sample some top food from a menu that brings together authenticity and variety.

The owners, two brothers with more than 50 years experience in the catering industry, have set a 1930s theme, including the enchanting background music.

The restaurant is named after the wives of the Englishmen serving in India until 1947, who helped to create a unique Anglo-Indian cuisine that they have tried to capture here - the menu has Mrs Beeton's Lahori chicken, Colonel Hares brinjal bhorta and Flora Memsahib's cutlets among its many options.

The waiters dress in smart white suit jackets and are only to happy to help, taking our jackets as we arrived and showing us to a quiet corner table.

After sipping on a cool bottle of Bangla beer (£2.60), I went for the wings of fire (£3.25) to start which I was chuffed to find was as hot as it suggested and covered in a rich sweet and sour sauce.

My friend, after being convinced to try something different, had the sevian talee jinghe (£4.95), a giant flattened king prawn deep fried in a spicy vermicelli coating with a mustard and sesame seed dip. He said it was tasty but a little dry.

Next I went for nehari kohe avadh (£11.95), a pot roasted shank of lamb sealed in a casserole with a medium-spiced mix, thickened with water chestnut flour and slowly cooked until tender. It was a mountain of a meal and the deliciously soft meat fell off the bone. There was too much on the plate, especially with a Lasooni (garlic) nan bread (£2.85) as well.

My friend had monk fish brinjal (£12.95), which was huge chunks of meat with spicy king prawns and smoked aubergine puree. Again, it was excellent.

The food arrived piping hot under a steel dome and the service was always very friendly and helpful.

A pot of coffee (£3.90) gave us two cups each to help us stay awake after the feast of food.

There also plenty of parking outside. The restaurant is open from 5.30pm to midnight seven days a week including bank holidays. Hot buffet and special menus can be arranged. They also offer a takeaway service but this menu is more limited.

ADDRESS

Memsahib The Swan Complex, Bridgnorth Road, Compton, Wolverhampton

Tel: 01902 757555

By Andy Rea