Yew Tree, Long Compton
The Yew Tree at Long Compton has long been renowned as a quality restaurant offering excellent food for the discerning diner. On a previous visit I was impressed with the range of imaginative dishes created from mostly local produce, such as venison from the Staffordshire Moorlands and North Staffordshire oatcakes filled with black pudding and locally grown apples.
But in recent months there have been changes in management at the award-winning eaterie and, most importantly, a change of head chef.
Richard Allan took over three weeks ago, having worked at the Yew Tree for four months.
Fresh produce is still a key element but I was perturbed and disappointed that, on inquiring about its previous use of Staffordshire produce, the only current dish he could bring to mind was Rugeley pork and leek sausages on the bar menu.
But Richard has a lot to live up to and is just settling in, creating new menus and building up his selection of dishes, so I felt he should be cut some slack until he has found his feet.
The restaurant menu was pretty limited when we paid a visit - it offered two courses for £15.95 with a choice of six starters and seven mains.
My companion struggled to find a starter which tempted his tastebuds and, as a confirmed carnivore, he was rather disgruntled to have to settle for the home-made soup of the day, cream of mushroom.
However he found it delicious, tangy and flavoursome, and polished it off with no further complaint.
I chose remoulade of crab and celeriac, with lamb's lettuce and vine-ripened tomatoes, which was tasty and offered an unexpected hint of curry spices.
For the main, I plumped for Barbary duck breast slices with fondant potato, honey-glazed root vegetables and red wine jus.
My friend had no such gripe with the medallions of beef fillet, with grain mustard mash, braised cabbage and red wine jus (which had an extra £3.50 charge).
The meat was tender and nicely cooked, and went very well with the interesting flavours of the vegetables.
There is a good choice of desserts. I found my coconut creme brulee a little too sweet but my fellow diner gave a thumbs-up to the profiteroles.
Dishes were perfectly presented and the service was excellent but there was little atmosphere as, presumably due to the Yew Tree's recent unsettled state in terms of manager and chef, the restaurant was unusually empty.
Considering the fact that there was only one other table of diners, it was slightly galling that the best-sounding red wine on the menu - promising hints of cinnamon, chocolate and truffle - was unavailable.
The food was good but, to mark it out from the crowd, the Yew Tree must capitalise on its setting in the heart of Staffordshire's rural community, and resurrect the local produce and dishes that made it such a winner.
ADDRESS
Yew Tree Inn, Long Compton, Ranton, near Stafford
Telephone: 01785 282278
By Wyn Matthews
