Sinners & Thinners

Often the only alternative to calorie-laden delights can be a bit old hat, leaving little scope for those watching their waistlines to savour something distinctly more adventurous.

Now Wolverhampton's newest restauraunt, Sinners & Thinners, aims to challenge this dilemma by offering inspiring menus catering for all kinds of people.

Situated on the picturesque canalside setting of Bridgnorth Road, Compton, the eaterie was launched recently after taking over former top restaurant Bridge 59.

Diners can relax on the terrace if the weather's fine and watch the boats go by on the canal alongside, or eat inside on the ground floor or upstairs in the private snug.

Traditionally decorated, the concept is simple - the 'sinners' menu lists options for those who want to indulge, while the 'thinners' menu is for those who don't want to bulge. As well as tantalising the senses of those who want to enjoy a good meal without compromising on taste, owner Roger Roberts also refreshingly caters for people with food allergies, such as those who are gluten-intolerant.

Old favourites with a twist are offered up alongside more contemporary equivalents with the accent on nutritional balance, while locally-sourced and organic ingredients are used where possible.

Menus change regularly and 'sinner' starters include Cumberland sausage and home-made pickle relish. 'Thinner' examples feature the likes of oak smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche.

I visited the restaurant last week with a friend who was happy to sample the sinners menu while I tried its slender counterpart.

To start I had grilled fillet of sea bass with sun-dried tomatoes and black pepper (£5.75), which was well-presented and very appetising.

My companion tried the warm bacon, avocado and herb salad with parmesan croutons (£5.25) - her verdict was it was nice apart from the avocado which was a tad hard.

To follow I was tempted by the roast mushrooms with savoury rissotto, which came served with grilled goats cheese with tofu (£11.95) and a selection of seasonal vegetables.

This was nothing short of a taste sensation. Bursting with flavour and light on the tummy, I really enjoyed this and would highly recommend it.

My friend, meanwhile, tucked into steak and chips which was very nice although some diners may prefer it with a sauce.

For pudding, she had banana and coconut mille feuille (£4.25) which was naughty but very nice.

All in all we enjoyed our meals and the only real observation was we felt some background music and perhaps candles on the tables would have added to the atmosphere. Although cosy, it felt rather like we were dining in someone's living room. Having said that, Roger and his team are friendly and take care to be always attentive without being intrusive.

The food is good and people will find the tab reasonable for the creations on offer and the canalside setting.

A two-course lunch costs £9.95 from a set menu. A-la-carte Sunday lunch is served from 12 noon until 4pm, while dinner is served Monday-Saturday from 6pm-11pm. People with dietary requirements can discuss them before ordering.

• Reservations can be made on 01902 759049.

By Stella Stokes

Sinners & Thinners, Compton, Wolverhampton