Travel review: The Yorkshire Dales

Ah yes, there is nothing quite like getting back to nature. Prior to my visit to Swinton Bivouac, situated in the beautiful Yorkshire dales, I had been warned that this would very much be a back to basics adventure. And so it proved to be.

Our party of six converged on the holiday destination, part of the 20,000 acre Swinton Estate which stretches from the River Ure and charming market town of Masham in Wensleydale up to the moorland dales and the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

Swinton Bivouac is set in charming woodland. It opened in 2012 and includes the Bistro Café, toilets and showers in the restored barn, six tree lodges, eight meadow yurts and a cosy bunk barn with 12 beds. We were staying in one of the tree lodges.

My partner Mandy and I arrived at dusk with our four children ranging In age from 10 to 15. For a generation embroiled in technology this was going to be a real test.

Light was fading as we located the 'log cabin', nestled behind a dry stone wall, opposite a field of bewildered looking sheep.

I threw open the door to the basic, but oh so cosy accommodation, and we entered in a flurry, desperate to locate the light switch.

But there is none.

Nope. No 'electrickery' in the woods. This was going to be fun.

As light faded we managed to light the log burner, our only source of heat – for us and the water.

Not that I am complaining, but Mandy could develop a chill in temperatures of 20c plus.

As for lighting, we soon located the five hand held lanterns containing tea-light candles. I must admit, arriving at such a time of day was a little disorientating and I would indeed recommend arriving earlier in the day. It proved less tranquil, and a little more 'The Hills Have Eyes'.

What the cabins lack in home comforts, they more than make up for in novelty value.

Each Tree Lodge shares a similar layout, with a maximum capacity of seven adults. Sleeping space includes an upper mezzanine with one double bed. Accessed via a ladder, it is one for the more romantic, adventurous and limber. From the mezzanine you can gaze at the stars through a skylight set into the ceiling.

The middle mezzanine, it is about five feet off the ground, perfect forposting a few kids for the night. Up to three can comfortably fit in here.

Under the middle mezzanine is a secret hideaway containing a double bed. More of a luxury 'bottom bunk' than anything else, a curtain can be drawn for privacy.

As for the rest of the lodge, an open plan kitchen area, containing the wood burner, sink and shelving for crockery, cutlery and cooking utensils, sits adjacent to a comfortable and homely lounge area where guests can curl up and enjoy the warmth from the fire.

It wasn't too long before our children had dealt with the lack of computer gadgetry and embraced chess by candlelight.

A separate room houses the bathroom which includes a flushing toilet, – hey it's basic, not medieval – shower and sink.

We bunked down for the night, looking forward to a day of fun-filled adventure to follow.

The next morning we travelled by car to Masham Riding & Trekking Centre.

This small rural riding centre provides trekking and basic riding lessons in a picturesque location. There are around 20 horses, all of which have a friendly disposition.

My daughter Rachel first rode a horse at the age of seven and it was lovey to see her in her element. Madeline and Jasmine, Mandy's girls enjoyed it too.

An hour later, the three girls returned and we ventured to the nearby Swinton Park.

The venue is an exclusive 31-bedroom luxury castle hotel. With 4 Red Stars and 3 Rosettes awarded by the AA for excellent facilities, this is the highest rated hotel in Yorkshire. Among its facilities is an intriguing cooking school and a spa.

Pampering

So, while Mandy enjoyed a little pampering in the form of a pedicure, I took the children for a long bicycle ride around the estate's perimeter.

The spa has four treatment rooms, including a double treatment room and an exclusive-use relaxation lounge with sauna and cedar hot tub, where you can relax in total privacy.

Also situated in the grounds is Swinton Park Bird of Prey Centre. The aviary is the restored orangery and is a short walk from the hotel, adjacent to the four acre walled garden and children's play area.

We caught up with falconer Sophie Abbott, back at Swinton Bivouac. Sophie, who masterminded the launch of the Bird of Prey Centre, lives within walking distance of the hotel and has lived on the Swinton Estate all her life.

She has worked with birds of prey since the age of 12, and is now a highly skilled and passionate falconer.

The six of us enjoyed a bird of prey taster session back at Swinton Bivouac and it was an amazing experience. The children loved watching and getting involved as the Harris Hawk and owl as flew from glove to glove. An obvious highlight for us all.

An intriguing Druid's Temple is situated in woodland on the grounds of Swinton Bivouac. The site is steeped in history and intrigue. It is believed to have been built in the late 1700s by William Danby (owner of Swinton) at a time when there was a great deal of interest in Druidism as part of the emerging Romantic period. There is a central temple in the middle of the woods, with other features in the surrounding trees. All I know is the children loved playing hide and seek there. It would make an excellent location for a movie.

And at the end of a busy day, what better than relaxation in an outside hot tub? The tub comfortably fits five adults and is hot. Really, really hot.

Not one for the shy either, as I discovered when the adjacent car park started filling for a function.

Oh well, I was only too pleased to entertain them.

By Paul Naylor